Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,392 total · 17/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Feb 25, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

One of the best hard routes at LCC, and perhaps one of the best of its grade in New Mexico, featuring 5-star limestone, thought-provoking moves, a significant pump-factor and powerful cranks that don't let up till you clip the chains.

Begin 20 feet left of the Hermit's Cave. Fortunately this route's position avoids the culturally sensitive area to the right. Slopey pockets head up and right for two bolts, to a difficult sequence moving past the third bolt and a decent shake on interesting holds. A few more large pockets lead to the 4th bolt and a long reach to a good 1/2 inch edge just below the crux bulge, that offers a mediocre rest.

Sequential and powerful cranks on surprisingly thin holds leads to a pair of two-finger pockets just over the lip. Make two dynamic stabs to a pair of sloping dishes, bring up a foot, rock over and crank for the excellent mail slot. From here you can clip bolts 6 & 7. Rest as best you can here (taller folks may find this difficult) as one more desparete move to a good crimp guards the chains.

Location

The first bolted route left of the Hermit's Cave. This is the only bolted route in the vicinity. About 100yds left (E) of the Violince Wall.

Protection

7 bolts, 2BA.

Photos