Avg: 4 from 1 vote
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||2,261 total · 17/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008|
|Admins:||Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details
The Lincoln National Forest Service continues its ban on bolting new routes (or, by permission only). However, climbing is currently allowed in all areas of Last Chance Canyon.
Black Plague is one of the best 5.13s in Southern New Mexico. The line ascends a stunningly beautiful pair of black streaks, up a gentle overhang with technical, powerful moves. The route is notorious for the double mono crux at the second bolt, where strong fingers are helpful, but impeccable movement can reduce the tweak factor significantly. Above the monos the holds stay small, but less tweaky. The route snakes right, left, and back right between the black streaks, before surmounting the final tufa roof. On the headwall a few slabby moves will keep your attention as you head to the chains.