Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,109 total · 10/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Sep 8, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Description

Start up with moderate moves to the first bolt. From here work with with a devious undercling sidepull, or reach past to pockets of various quality. Eventually a nice sidepull jug or higher jugs can be used for clipping the second bolt. Head up through steep rock on good holds with a few big moves thrown in. Rest where possible for the rightward traverse and a final heartbreaking crux before the anchors.

Location

Between John Wayne's Knee and Chuckwagon. Second route from the entrance with fixed draws.

Protection

6 fixed draws to Anchors. Consider stickclipping the first draw and possibly the second as the moves to the second draw aren't trivial. This will however take a incredibly long stickclip.

Photos

Jerry432
odessa texas
 
Jerry432   odessa texas
 
Right hand hold for the big throw move in center section of climb completely broke off. Still totally doable and doesn't change grade but the super classic big move (dyno for some) is a no go no mo. Still a great climb and my personal favorite in the canyon. Aug 15, 2016