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Routes in Mad Cow Wall

Anthrax Letters S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Bandit S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Big Daddy S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Black Plague S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Bubbles S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Chuckwagon S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Cutter S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Die Hardral S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ebola S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
John Waynes Knee S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mad Cow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rabid Dale S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rabid Dave S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rattlesnake S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rawhide S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shakka S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unknown 5.12b S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Unknown 5.12b (2) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
West Wasn't Won on Salad S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 5,232 ft
GPS: 32.236, -104.753 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 9,138 total, 76/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Jan 22, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

The Mad Cow Wall is arguably the best cliff at LCC, and certainly the best chunk of limestone in New Mexico. The wall stretches for several hundred yards, featuring loads of stellar lines. Routes range in steepness from just past vertical, up to "very steep", and tend to be longer than the routes at other LCC cliffs. Visiting hardmen will want to take a stab at the stunning double black streak of "Black Plague". However, this cliff really shines in the lower 5.12 grades.

This wall faces Northeast. However, unlike the Violence Wall, Mad Cow receives virtually no sun in the winter. It is possible to climb here in the dead of winter (on the right day), but it may be pretty chilly.
Climbing is currently allowed in Last Chance Canyon. Continued access is everyones responsibility. Details

Getting There

From the Violence Wall, continue SE along the cliff base past a large cave (I assume this is the "Hermit Cave", which is off-limits to climbing) with several interesting artifacts. The first few routes ascend super steep orange tiers. To get oriented, find the right-leaning, overhanging bolted dihedral of "The West Wasn't Won on A Salad".

Routes

Routes from the Entrance to Hueco Cave. Climbers RIGHT TO LEFT (Thanks DTP!).

(01) Bubbles (5.13b) - Beautiful Limestone, Last 3 draws are Fixed
(02) Bandit (5.12c/13a) - Powerful Start through roof to easier finish.
(03) John Waynes Knee (5.12d/13a) - Thin vertical start to wild dynos and a tricky finish. Fixed Draws
(04) Rawhide (5.12c) - Classic route on big holds and steep rock. Fixed Draws
(05) Chuckwagon (5.12c) - Big holds except for the hard boulder problem middle. Fixed Draws
(06) West Wasn't Won on Salad (5.12a) - Rightwards traversing up an overhanging arete with a wild finish. Fixed Draws
(07) Peacemaker (5.12d) - Rumored to have broken
(08) Unknown (5.12b)
(09) Rattlesnake (5.11b) - Hard start to easier finish
(10) Rabid Dale (5.12b) - Bouldery Start to a rest to hard thin finish
(11) Unknown (5.12b)
(12) Black Plague (5.13b) - Hard moves up a beautiful section of stone.
(13) Big Daddy (5.12d) - 4 Star climbing up a 30° overhang. Thin climbing culminates in a thin crimp crux.
(14) Rabid Dave (5.12b) - Great route on stellar rock.
(15) Die Hardral (5.12a) - Climbs up the diehedral on closely spaced bolts.
(16) Shakka (5.11c) - Easier climbing on thin crimps
(17) Cutter (5.11c) - Great climbing on crimps, the warmup??
(18) Mad Cow (5.12b) - More great climbing with long pulls on thin crimps
(19) Anthrax Letters (5.12d) - Hard Start to easier climbing?
(20) Ebola (5.13a) - Harder Start to easier climbing?

19 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mad Cow Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cutter
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
West Wasn't Won on Salad
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mad Cow
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rabid Dave
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rawhide
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Chuckwagon
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Bandit
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
John Waynes Knee
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Ebola
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cutter 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
West Wasn't Won on Salad 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Mad Cow 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Rabid Dave 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Rawhide 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Chuckwagon 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Bandit 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
John Waynes Knee 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Ebola 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Mad Cow Wall »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
Routes from the Entrance to Hueco Cave. Climbers right to left.

01 Bubbles 5.13b - Beautiful Limestone, Last 3 draws are Fixed
02 Bandit 5.12c/13a - Powerful Start through roof to easier finish.
03 John Waynes Knee 5.12d/13a - Thin vertical start to wild dynos and a tricky finish. Fixed Draws
04 Rawhide 5.12c - Classic route on big holds and steep rock. Fixed Draws
05 ChuckWagon 5.12c - Big holds except for the hard boulder problem middle. Fixed Draws
06 The West Wasn't Won on a Salad 5.12a - Rightwards traversing up an overhanging arete with a wild finish. Fixed Draws
07 Peacemaker 5.12d - Rumored to have broken
08 Unknown 5.12b
09 Rattlesnake 5.11b - Hard start to easier finish
10 Rabid Dale 5.12b - Bouldery Start to a rest to hard thin finish
11 Unknown 5.12b
12 Black Plague 5.13b - Hard moves up a beautiful section of stone.
13 Big Daddy 5.12d - 4 Star climbing up a 30° overhang. Thin climbing culminates in a thin crimp crux.
14 Rabid Dave 5.12b - Great route on stellar rock.
15 Die Hardral 5.12a - Climbs up the diehedral on closely spaced bolts.
16 Shakka 5.11c - Easier climbing on thin crimps
17 Cutter 5.11c - Great climbing on crimps, the warmup??
18 Mad Cow 5.12b - More great climbing with long pulls on thin crimps
19 Anthrax Letters 5.12d - Hard Start to easier climbing?
20 Ebola 5.13a - Harder Start to easier climbing? Sep 8, 2009

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