Type: Ice, 45 ft
FA: John Trembley Pat Hackett, jan 1986
Page Views: 1,627 total · 12/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Feb 20, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Climb a short moderate pillar stemming off another one to a awkward mantel on to a nice ice ledge below a roof...Clip a fixed pin or 2 maybe with a long draw (you are still close to the ground so its tough to decide weather to extend at all)... From this perch you move out left on ice and rock around an icicle to a couple of powerful steep moves up on to a more moderate finish...

A really fun climb... The grade is super dependent on conditions... George Hurley told me one year it was so fat it went at 4+ and everyone was running up it... Usually though plan on short but powerful climbing and a little bit spooky pro at the crux...

Location

In the middle of the cliff look for an ice pillar under a roof leading to a ledge with pins in the wall...

Protection

Screws and screamers and a long sling or 2 maybe... Other rock gear may be needed dependent on conditions...

Photos