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Routes in Bluff Street Cracks

Deface Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freeze Dried Bat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inspired and Perspired T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joseph Meeks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pig Lloyd T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Red Warrior T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wide Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 55 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,538 total · 20/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Feb 19, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


49 Opinions

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Access Issue: Sometimes closed in spring for raptor nesting Details

Description

A mostly hands- to thin-hands corner crack, with a short section of fingertip-width. The jamming is fun, a bit of liebacking is helpful, and there are face features here and there to make plugging the gear a bit easier.

Near the top, one side of the crack is pretty rough, making cam placement a bit tricky, and if you're one of those no-tape masochists...good luck.

Location

This left-facing, corner crack is located in the same alcove as Deface Crack and Wide Boy. It shares anchors with Deface Crack; the anchor isn't visible from the ground directly beneath the crack because it is set back a bit, over a ledge at the top of the crack.

Looking down, 500 W street in Saint George is just slightly west. The belay area is large, flat, and well-used so it should be hard to miss.

Protection

Mostly hand-sized. I used several #2.5 Friends with one or two #3 Friends. I also used a #2 Camalot C3.

The anchor is above a ledge and consists of 3 bolts and hangers with (smallish) chain from two hangers joined with a single quicklink, and webbing from the 3rd hanger joined to the chains' quicklink with another quicklink.

Photos

Jared R
  5.10b
Jared R  
  5.10b
Fun route with the crux being a lieback section. I TRed it and thought it was harder than Deface Crack. Feb 5, 2010
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.10b
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.10b
Definitely harder than Deface Crack. The crack gets very thin and there aren't any rests like Deface. So you must keep on chugging along! Mar 26, 2013
Garret Nuzzo-Jones
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
Garret Nuzzo-Jones   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
Superb rock quality in a fun corner that varies from thin hands to a fingers section. I have larger hands and I could barely get tips in the thinnest section.

Bring some slings to extend the anchor. Jan 6, 2015
Hand jams for the top half were just a little too small for perfect jams. Good pro throughout Dec 13, 2015
Dory Elizabeth
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
Dory Elizabeth   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10-
This crack takes three #2 Camalots, one piece of thin gear during the layback section, and as many #1s as you feel like carrying. With smaller hands this thing is delightful, and perfect jams pretty much the entire way. I found Deface Crack waaay more difficult for my hand size.

Climb this and get stoked. Jan 29, 2018

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