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Routes in Bluff Street Cracks

Deface Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freeze Dried Bat T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Inspired and Perspired T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Joseph Meeks T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Pig Lloyd T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Red Warrior T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Wide Boy T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,206 total · 13/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Apr 27, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A crack of expanding proportions...

A less than solid overhanging hand crack with a surprise ending. This back bending fracture delivers more than a few scrapes and bruises. Bomber hands, a delicate lie-back, and an insecure, "walk on water" crux make for a wild ride with big air time potential.

Approach slightly right of the crack on more solid rock, work up and left to gain a ledge, rest and get a good eye on the arc. Work yourself into the splitter, dipping in and out using edges and chips randomly spaced throughout the route. Work up into the apex, and meet the puzzling crux. Tip-toe through this feature to a less than ideal rest, fire the wide red point crux and finish on a ledge. High five yourself for making it!

Location

Directly left of Wide Boy is this overhanging hand crack. Easily identified by its crack and flaky nature, this is the only arcing crack that ends in an off-width.

Protection

An ideal rack would include one #1, three #2's and two #3 camalots. You can get away with a #1, two #2's and a #3 if you walk the lower #2 up a bit from the start. Finish on a ledge at a chain anchor.

Photos

brianadvenures
slc
  5.10b/c
brianadvenures   slc
  5.10b/c
fun old route. The crux is after the hand crack, felt more like a solid 10 offwidth move. Oct 7, 2010

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