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Routes in Whale's Tail

Jason's Argonaut S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pockets a' Plenty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rose, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Stewart Green, Mike Heinrichs, Martha Morris
Page Views: 2,183 total · 17/month
Shared By: Brian Collins on Jan 22, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is a corner system (yes - an actual corner/crack at RRCOS) on the left side of the face. Head straight up to first bolt, then work your way into the corner system from left hand side up past third bolt to small ledge. Proceed straight up as slab tapers off to anchors.

Location

This is the leftmost climb of three at the Whale's Tail.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Something must have broken off at the crux. The crux felt harder than anything on the 5.9 on this wall, though the rest felt easy. Jan 18, 2009
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.7
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.7
Better and cleaner than it looks - not really a crack though. Oct 3, 2009
Michael Neuder
Colorado Springs, Co
Michael Neuder   Colorado Springs, Co
Cool climb. Interesting through the crux section and nice view from the top. Apr 17, 2011
Daniel H. Bryant
Colorado Springs, CO
Daniel H. Bryant   Colorado Springs, CO
Fun route, somewhat sustained if you follow along the bolts. Ok, people, the rap rings on this route are showing some serious wear, stop being lazy, stop lowering and top roping from them. Top rope from your own gear, you'll feel better about yourself in the long run. Sep 27, 2013
Brad Gone  
 
ANCHOR IS MISSING. 3/19/2014. Mar 20, 2014
Jacob Williams
Fort Collins, CO
Jacob Williams   Fort Collins, CO
Did this yesterday, anchor is back with chains (thanks to Stewart Green, I think). Didn't have any problems, a nice 5.7 with a flat area on the bottom for the dogs to lay in the shade. Oct 27, 2014
David Tennant
Denver, CO
 
David Tennant   Denver, CO
 
Seemed pretty reasonable to be able to set up a top rope without leading it. Just scramble up about 50ft left of the route. There's a tree right about the anchors about 20ft also if needed.

Found going directly to the second bolt to be the crux, I went left and just clipped the third bolt instead on lead. There is however a good clipping stance for the second bolt, just didn't see it until I came down. Aug 13, 2015
Cyril Multhauf
Fort Collins, CO
  5.7+
Cyril Multhauf   Fort Collins, CO
  5.7+
We just hit this route up the other day.

Most of the party found it easier to top out the left hand side of the crux which is just around the first/ second bolt.

Good route, the whole area is chossy, so I dont know if this was meant to be easier and is getting progressive harder over time. Oct 19, 2015
Climbed this today. The route is in good shape. Bolts are all solid (no spinners). Anchors and chains in good shape. The route is definitely a stout 5.7. This is really nice as so many other climbs just have that "one" tough move while the rest is easier. If you want to feel like you're "climbing" the entire route, this is a fun one. Climb safe! Apr 3, 2016
Mark Hense
Wisconsin
  5.8
Mark Hense   Wisconsin
  5.8
2nd bolt and the bolt before chains make this kind of a stiff 5.7. Jun 18, 2018

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