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Routes in Whale's Tail

Jason's Argonaut S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pockets a' Plenty S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rose, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,931 total, 17/month
Shared By: Kevin Wood on Jun 17, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


58 Opinions

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Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This route is the middle of the three at Whale's Tail. Climb up easy ledges to the first clip. Right after the second bolt is the crux, smear and shift your weight and body (with your right hand in a nice undercling) over to the left with a crimper for your hand. This is a long reach. After this move, cruise over 5.7/.8 terrain to the two bolt anchors. This route seems soft for the grade and easier than the route to the right.

Location

Whale's Tail is located southwest-ish of the lakes and, if coming from the parking lot near US 24, is reached before the Whale Wall. This is the middle route.

Protection

7 quickdraws and a two bolt anchor w/ rap rings.

Photos

Byrne  
The bolt hanger at the crux is a spinner. I had no tools with me to tighten up the nut, but I can see why that hanger is spinning as it appears that a lot of people take a pendulum fall on that bolt. Oct 5, 2016
Matt Chezem
  5.10a
Matt Chezem  
  5.10a
Definitely a 10a for me. At 5'7", the crux was a reach for sure. Perfectly protected though. Apr 7, 2016
S.Stelli
Colorado Springs, CO
 
S.Stelli   Colorado Springs, CO
 
There is a 2ft by 2ft flake of rock, about 2-3 inches thick, that is just after the crux of this route. It's completely hollow behind the flake - so if one was to pull out on it, I'm sure it would bust free and shower large rock chunks down. For reference, it's about two bolts down from the anchors in a really easy section of the climb. Apr 8, 2015
I replaced the missing anchors and bolts at the Whale's Tail and in the rest of the park with Collin Powers with the CMS. Thanks to the Colorado Mountain Club for generously donating the replacement bolt hangers! Jul 19, 2014
Isaac H.  
 
Anchors are back. They have been for a couple months now, but I just figured I'd post it. Thanks whoever put them in. Jul 10, 2014
cslice
Longmont, CO
cslice   Longmont, CO
Anchor is still missing. Very frustrating...have to be creative to get your gear back. April 11, 2014. Apr 12, 2014
teece303
Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.10a
teece303   Highlands Ranch, CO
  5.10a
This is a fun route, and the crux is well-protected, but it is glass smooth for a second right there and for me at 5' 7" very much in the 5.10 ratings.

After bolt three, it's over. Apr 27, 2013
Michael Neuder
Colorado Springs, Co
5.10-
Michael Neuder   Colorado Springs, Co
5.10-
I'd call it a low ten for shorter people. The move of the undercling is pretty big and really cool. Apr 17, 2011
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
You can actually go left around the 2nd bolt and make it a bit easier. Mar 2, 2011
Marley Hodgson
CO
  5.10a
Marley Hodgson   CO
  5.10a
Climbed it 3/6/10 and the guy before us busted off the crimper for the left hand at the crux. It is now of little use other than perhaps balance. So the crux may be back in the 10a range. Still very fun couple of moves. Mar 8, 2010
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.9+
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.9+
I would say it is height-dependent. If you can do the big reach above the crux bolt, then it is easier than the 9. If not, then the lower step across falls in the 10 range. Good, clean rock and fun moves. Oct 3, 2009
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
A few moves are much harder than the 9 to the right. Jan 18, 2009
rudy
arlington, va
rudy   arlington, va
You people are all crazy. This route was way hard. I had to teach my boyfriend to climb so he would lead it for me. Slab people are such a bunch of sandbaggers, no offense. My hostility is purely bred of envy - but jeesh. Oct 29, 2008
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
I've led this about three times and agree that it is comparable with [Pockets a' Plenty]. However, I think if you stick to the right instead of crossing over to the left down below the crux it may cross over into the RRCOS .10- range...IMO. Oct 1, 2008
KateC  
Yep. We climbed this last weekend and it felt easier than the bottom of the 9 to the right. Definitely a 1-2 move crux, but a fun climb nonetheless. Sep 30, 2008
This has gotten lots easier. The last time I climbed it I thought it was borderline 5.9, maybe solid 5.9 for 2 moves for a short person. Jun 23, 2008