Type: Sport, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Glenn Ritter
Page Views: 3,794 total · 29/month
Shared By: chummer on Jan 13, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Description

Despite the chossy ledge midway and silly name I feel this route is a classic. Above the 1/3 height ledge the rock changes to some of the most clean and textured stone I've ever seen. The position near the top is fantastic. AND the climb is nearly always dry, even in a downpour like most of the routes here.

Location

On the far right edge of the Rasputin ledge but just before the massively overhung "Bee Wall." Start in left facing corner. Climb to ledge and belay or runner prudently and keep pullin'.

Protection

16/18 (anchors) draws. Cold Shuts for anchors. If you're top roping make sure to use your own draws to save the wear on the shuts. 70 meter rope gets you down just fine.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c/d
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11c/d
This route is excellent and demands endurance and excellent route finding/rock reading skills. There are a couple of spots where the next bolt looks dangerously far away, but fear not, there is a bolt to be had that is closer, you just can't see it yet.

NOTE: THIS ROUTE REQUIRES 15 DRAWS + ANCHORS AND A 70M ROPE!!!! Oct 15, 2010
brian k sohn
knoxville, tn
 
brian k sohn   knoxville, tn
 
Note, this route is not 12 pitches, as indicated. Also, if my 60m rope is cut a little long (I haven't measured it) the route is 110 ft at the most. If you lower with a 60m, you can climb down the poison-ivy covered tree to get down the last few feet. Aug 18, 2012
Danny Hupp
Nashville, TN
  5.11b
Danny Hupp   Nashville, TN
  5.11b
Absolutely classic line. First 30 feet are semi-technical corner climbing until you reach a big chossy ledge. From there it's an 80 foot jug haul with really good horizontal hand-jam rests. There are only a few hard-ish moves on the route, but the pump will catch up to you at the end if your endurance is lacking. Mar 31, 2014
Le Bob
Lakewood,CO
 
Le Bob   Lakewood,CO
 
There are some quicklinks halfway if you need to lower with a 60m. I had a ~65m rope and barely got down in one lower had to down climb the first 10ft off the end of the rope! Apr 15, 2017
Zabadoo
Grand Rapids, MI
  5.11b/c
Zabadoo   Grand Rapids, MI
  5.11b/c
I was thankful that there were a couple of quick links on the bolt directly before the chossy ledge. It should be noted though that that bolt is spinning. Now I can say that I bailed of a spinner! The first 30 feet are quite excellent and the rest looked great. Not being ready for the TN heat squashed my hopes of the send. Aug 25, 2017
I'm not sure what the discrepancy is, but I climbed this with a 70m rope 2 days ago and was about 15-20 feet short when I was lowered. I ended up swinging out to the tree near the base of the route and climbing down. Otherwise, there's a biner left at the last bolt before the ledge you could lower off of if necessary.

Also, the hangers get progressively more and more rusty as you get higher on the route, which adds a little bit to the head game. This could probably use a rebolting soon.

Awesome, fun climb otherwise though. Honestly, compared to other routes of similar grade all the moves were probably hard 10's and below, but the pump gets real towards the last quarter of the route. Longest single pitch I've ever done. Apr 22, 2018