Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Craig Stannard and Bob Cormany, 1978
Page Views: 5,115 total · 37/month
Shared By: Sam Adams on Oct 21, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

This line is a little confusing at first only because the first ledge at approximately 40' has a double bolt anchor. If you only want to do the lower section this is fine, but I would not recommend doing this route in two pitches. The 5.8+ crux is right off this ledge and a fall here so close to the anchor would be not so good.

Start by climbing the left facing corner to an awkward bulge to the previously mentioned ledge. Take rest and pull the bulge above the ledge with a handcrack. Continue through a couple more 5.8 moves in a very nice and well protected hand crack. Traverse left near the top to find double bolt anchors at a spacious ledge.

Dixie Cragger's Atlas notes an alternate finish up and right, but I saw nothing that looked like it would go at 5.8 or less to the right; however it looked like an easy 4th class to the top continuing to the left past the belay ledge.

This is a great climb with challenging crux that is a little exposed and very worthy of your attention.

Location

Two ropes to reach the ground or walk off.
The climb is easy to find by following the guidebook. It starts in a shady corner with a large hemlock

Protection

A bolt just below the crux at the ledge and a bolt above the crux. both seemed useless as there is better protection nearby and probably added in the 90's. Otherwise a standard rack of nuts, tricams, and cams up to #4 camalot. Plenty of runners.

Photos