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Routes in North Clear Creek

441 S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Acquiescence S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Alpine Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Altered States S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Arachnophobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beacon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Hole, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buster Brown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canus Roofus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crosspickin' T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Drop Zone, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dude with a Tude T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fox's toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Arrow, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Envy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang on to your ego T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Haulin' 'n Ballin' S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horizontal Skins, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Liposuctor T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Sandwich Shall Be Left Untouched T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nocturnal Animals S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old and in the way T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Puff the magic dragon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rasputin D. Scaliwag S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Real McCoy, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Robber's Roost S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saddam Hussein S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sane Addiction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scalded Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skins Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smiley Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Southern Hydraulics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spellbound S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Temple Pilots aka (Rumors of War) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Swiss Family Robinson S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sysiphus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tempest S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tempter T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truman Show Project, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Under the Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vulture Culture T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm up route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witches Broom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Youth in Asia S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Craig Stannard and Bob Cormany, 1978
Page Views: 3,874 total, 35/month
Shared By: Sam Adams on Oct 21, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

This line is a little confusing at first only because the first ledge at approximately 40' has a double bolt anchor. If you only want to do the lower section this is fine, but I would not recommend doing this route in two pitches. The 5.8+ crux is right off this ledge and a fall here so close to the anchor would be not so good.

Start by climbing the left facing corner to an awkward bulge to the previously mentioned ledge. Take rest and pull the bulge above the ledge with a handcrack. Continue through a couple more 5.8 moves in a very nice and well protected hand crack. Traverse left near the top to find double bolt anchors at a spacious ledge.

Dixie Cragger's Atlas notes an alternate finish up and right, but I saw nothing that looked like it would go at 5.8 or less to the right; however it looked like an easy 4th class to the top continuing to the left past the belay ledge.

This is a great climb with challenging crux that is a little exposed and very worthy of your attention.

Location

Two ropes to reach the ground or walk off.
The climb is easy to find by following the guidebook. It starts in a shady corner with a large hemlock

Protection

A bolt just below the crux at the ledge and a bolt above the crux. both seemed useless as there is better protection nearby and probably added in the 90's. Otherwise a standard rack of nuts, tricams, and cams up to #4 camalot. Plenty of runners.

Photos

Zabadoo
Grand Rapids, MI
  5.8
Zabadoo   Grand Rapids, MI
  5.8
One of the best routes I have ever done. Super fun movement and super long with great pro. Aug 25, 2017
Chuck Parks
Atlanta, GA
 
Chuck Parks   Atlanta, GA
 
The bolted belay at 40 feet I could live with. But the two bolts on "pitch 2" located right next to a perfectly good crack need to go. This climb is very well protected without the need for any bolts. Apr 11, 2016
Adam Beck
Nashville, TN
Adam Beck   Nashville, TN
I first climbed the lower pitch in 2008. It's my opinion that this pitch is closer to 5.6. Still a worthwhile pitch that protects well. Great for beginning leaders. The two-bolt anchor on the ledge makes this pitch appropriately accessible. The ledge is a good place to practice top belays too.

I went back yesterday and led the second pitch from the ledge. I agree that the start is bouldery, yet I was able to reach high from the belay to place a very nice purple Camalot which well protected that crux. The rest of the pitch is fun and protects well. Yet near the top traverse is a stack of large precariously stacked blocks which the second's rope can't help but run over. There appears to be little holding these blocks in place. The result of them being dislodged with a climber beneath could be catastrophic! For this reason I advise against the upper pitch so long as the blocks are there.

There is a rap station on a ledge about 80' directly below the top anchor. It's been there for years. 60m rope, 2 rappells will easily get you down. Nov 28, 2015
paul.adams.3
Knoxville, TN
 
paul.adams.3   Knoxville, TN
 
I've led this as 1 and 2 pitches and both are fun. If you split it up, you can build an anchor at the bolt above the first anchors. Use a number 2 and .4 camalot with the bolt and you're set. It's a good stance as well, although not as big as the anchor ledge, but you belay above the crux move. The belay from the top is awesome. Def worth bringing your partner up..the view and position are spectacular. A 70m will just barely get you down with stretch. But, there is a set of anchors from another climb that you can rap directly down to instead of swinging over to the pitch 1 anchors. It is literally directly below the top anchors Nov 25, 2015
M.Ish
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
M.Ish   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
If you are going to combine the first and second pitches, a 70m rope is suggested - every centimeter was used. Bomber placements the whole way up. A good route to practice jamming. If you get uncomfortable, plenty of face holds offer support. Sep 28, 2015
khowe
Knoxville, TN
  5.8
khowe   Knoxville, TN
  5.8
With a single 60m rope, rapping to the first set of anchors is doable, but very awkward, as the top anchors are not at all in-line with the first set of bolts. Like others have noted, a 70m to the ground is recommended. This is a fantastic trad route for the grade, don't pass it up! Nov 30, 2014
who is the dickweed that added the double bolt anchor in the middle of the best single pitch crack in the obed. someone please chop and fill. wait a minute, am i reading that someone bolted this crack for protection in this route description. kelly, if you read this please authorize someone to clean up this mess. there should be no bolts on this route other than top rap anchors, if any. Mar 1, 2014
DrRockso
Red River Gorge, KY
DrRockso   Red River Gorge, KY
Pulled off the 50 lbs death block next the the fixed bolt on the second pitch. Great route. Did this in one pitch, you MUST have a 70m rope to lower to the ground from the top bolted anchors, alternatively lower or rap to the 1st set of bolted anchors. Sep 3, 2013
Yep, AD can be climbed in a single pitch. It's silly to call it a Grade III. I'm not sure where that came from...

Fun climb though. I took a monster whipper on this one when my toe slipped on a wet hold about half way up the second pitch. I'd just stopped to place pro and was a little run out when it happened. A little purple camalot caught the fall and I ended up hanging left of the belay ledge, just about even with my partner.

Good times! This could be a good one for an aspiring multi-pitch climber to cut his/her teeth on. The belay ledge is nice and big, the crack soaks up midsize pro, and the falls are clean. I recommend it. Mar 4, 2013
Haha, Grade III? Ha, I mean its a great route, but someone needs to change that. Sep 28, 2012