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Saddam Hussein

5.11b/c, Sport, 110 ft (33 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 134 votes
FA: Glenn Ritter 1996
Tennessee > Obed & Clear Creek > N Clear Creek > Broom Wall/Rasputin L…

Description

Despite the chossy ledge midway and silly name I feel this route is a classic. Above the 1/3 height ledge the rock changes to some of the most clean and textured stone I've ever seen. The position near the top is fantastic. AND the climb is nearly always dry, even in a downpour like most of the routes here.

Location

On the far right edge of the Rasputin ledge but just before the massively overhung "Bee Wall." Start in left facing corner. Climb to ledge and belay or runner prudently and keep pullin'.

Protection

16/18 (anchors) draws. Cold Shuts for anchors. If you're top roping make sure to use your own draws to save the wear on the shuts. 70 meter rope gets you down just fine.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Beautiful tall climb that is Saddam Hussein!
[Hide Photo] Beautiful tall climb that is Saddam Hussein!
Spring time at North Clear.
[Hide Photo] Spring time at North Clear.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

brian k sohn
knoxville, tn
 
[Hide Comment] Note, this route is not 12 pitches, as indicated. Also, if my 60m rope is cut a little long (I haven't measured it) the route is 110 ft at the most. If you lower with a 60m, you can climb down the poison-ivy covered tree to get down the last few feet. Aug 18, 2012
Danny Hupp
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Absolutely classic line. First 30 feet are semi-technical corner climbing until you reach a big chossy ledge. From there it's an 80 foot jug haul with really good horizontal hand-jam rests. There are only a few hard-ish moves on the route, but the pump will catch up to you at the end if your endurance is lacking. Mar 31, 2014
Le Bob
Lakewood,CO
 
[Hide Comment] There are some quicklinks halfway if you need to lower with a 60m. I had a ~65m rope and barely got down in one lower had to down climb the first 10ft off the end of the rope! Apr 15, 2017
Zabadoo
Grand Rapids, MI
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] I was thankful that there were a couple of quick links on the bolt directly before the chossy ledge. It should be noted though that that bolt is spinning. Now I can say that I bailed of a spinner! The first 30 feet are quite excellent and the rest looked great. Not being ready for the TN heat squashed my hopes of the send. Aug 25, 2017
Garçon Rouge
Nashville, TN
 
[Hide Comment] I'm not sure what the discrepancy is, but I climbed this with a 70m rope 2 days ago and was about 15-20 feet short when I was lowered. I ended up swinging out to the tree near the base of the route and climbing down. Otherwise, there's a biner left at the last bolt before the ledge you could lower off of if necessary.

Also, the hangers get progressively more and more rusty as you get higher on the route, which adds a little bit to the head game. This could probably use a rebolting soon.

Awesome, fun climb otherwise though. Honestly, compared to other routes of similar grade all the moves were probably hard 10's and below, but the pump gets real towards the last quarter of the route. Longest single pitch I've ever done. Apr 22, 2018
Andrew C
Atlanta
[Hide Comment] A 70 meter rope makes it down with a few meters to spare. A couple of alpine draws are useful. May 17, 2021
Elise Zheng
NYC
  5.11b/c
[Hide Comment] Logistics: 70m is just enough to lower to the ground. Now there is a perma draw at 5th bolt where you can go in direct and re-thread the rope if you only have 60m. To manage the rope drag, best place to extend the draws: 4th (near the vertical crack), perma (I used a long draw to extend the perma), and 6th (right after the ledge). Always pull the rope down from the climber side so that it doesn't pile up or get stuck on the ledge or tree. May 4, 2024
Adam Gallimore
Greensboro
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Really fun sport route but an even better trad climb. I placed as much trad gear as there were bolts and the crux was relatively well protected with a nice, clean, fall into space if you blow the moves. I used doubles from .3 z4 to #1 c4 and singles of #2 #3 as well as many offset stoppers and crucial black tricam before the traverse into the chossy dihedral. Crux protects well with a .3, black totem, or yellow tcu May 29, 2024
David Draper
Chattanooga, TN
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Stellar line, beautiful position above the bend in the creek, and perfect for a 70 meter rope. The route is no harder than 11a primarily due to the endurance needed. If you milk the rests.... maybe softer? Oct 19, 2024
chummer
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] Free soloed this one in the late 90's after running laps on TRS with one Ushba. Had it ruthlessly wired. Felt great. Easy top was nice. One of Obed's best rainy day options and endurance trainer. Feb 18, 2025