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Routes in North Clear Creek

441 S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Acquiescence S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Alpine Dihedral T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Altered States S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Arachnophobia S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Beacon T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Black Hole, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Buster Brown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Canus Roofus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crosspickin' T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Drop Zone, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dude with a Tude T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fox's toys T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Green Arrow, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Green Envy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hang on to your ego T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Haulin' 'n Ballin' S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Horizontal Skins, The T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Liposuctor T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
No Sandwich Shall Be Left Untouched T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nocturnal Animals S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Old and in the way T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Puff the magic dragon S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Rasputin D. Scaliwag S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Real McCoy, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Robber's Roost S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Saddam Hussein S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sane Addiction T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Scalded Dog S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ship's Ahoy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Skins Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smiley Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Southern Hydraulics T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spellbound S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stone Temple Pilots aka (Rumors of War) S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Swiss Family Robinson S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sysiphus S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tempest S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Tempter T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truman Show Project, The S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Under the Gun S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vulture Culture T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Warm up route S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Witches Broom S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Youth in Asia S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 130 ft
FA: FFA Steve Goins, bolted extension David Frazier
Page Views: 1,655 total · 13/month
Shared By: chummer on Jan 13, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Originally done by Steve Goins as a ridiculously pumpy gear climb this amazing route was later retro bolted. Super steep and unrelenting. No hard moves really but quite the pump. A most inspiring line.

A somewhat loose 40 foot section starts things off but at the ledge rock quality improves. Fun crack moves, jugs, and a few crimps get you to a rest. A big move takes you to the juggy roof. The upper headwall is steep and pumpy.

The climbing isn't over at the shuts. Move left at the anchors for more steep juggy moves. This allows you to climb all the way to the very top of the cliff. You could mantle the lip even. A long pitch. Done this way it's perhaps 5.12 c/d.

Location

Located a bit further right from the obvious Rasputin roofs locate the grey rock below an obvious right leaning left facing corner below massive roofs.

Protection

16 bolts. A few extra long below the flat roofs is key.
As of 12/25/2012 the bolt in the roof is missing a hanger. The anchors need replacing as well.

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