Nuts and Bolts
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British R
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 33.99384, -116.13921 |
| FA: | Bart Groendycke & Todd Alston, 1990 |
| Page Views: | 1,414 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | chrisp on Jan 12, 2008 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a steep bolted arete at the top of Saddle Rocks. The rock is mostly good compared to the routes down the hill from this one.
The bolts are in the right place to protect all the difficult moves but there is a significant runnout from the last bolt to the summit- very exciting! Not recommended if you are just breaking into 5.9 slab routes though- possibly a little more difficult than 5.9.



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