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Routes in Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall
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Center Flow Slab WI3+ |
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Chosspector Corner (WW) T M5 PG13 |
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Decent Descent Ice WI2 |
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Diamond Couloir, The Mod. Snow |
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Frosted Flakes S,TR M7 |
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Heche En Gringolandia (WW) T M4- |
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Jensen's Crack WI5 M6 |
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Left Crag Mixed Lines T WI3-4 M4- R |
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Lincoln Falls Minor T WI4- |
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Low Angle Left Slab T WI2-3 |
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Main Flow Left T WI4 |
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Main Flow Right T WI4 |
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Not in the Brochure? WI5+ M6 PG13 |
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Random Mixed WI4 M4-5 |
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Scotch and Soda T M7 |
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Scottish Ale S,TR M6 |
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Scottish Gully T WI3 |
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Sheep Skin Protection (WW) T M4 Mod. Snow PG13 |
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Sickle on a Stick (aka Newt's Veil) T,TR WI5 |
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Sleepy Hallow T WI4 M3 Steep Snow |
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Splitter Choss (WW) T M4-5 Mod. Snow |
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Thin Pin (WW) T M5+ Steep Snow |
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Traffic Avoidance aka Left of Scottish Gully T WI2-3 |
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Unnamed “Beet Juice” S M6+ |
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Wasi'chu Gallows (WW) T M4 A1 |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, Mixed, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Mike Gruber and Brad Grohusky, '90's or early 2000s? |
| Page Views: | 4,090 total · 20/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is an old TR line ~M6 that perhaps someone bold has led. Its real name is unknown to me, so I gave it a temporary name until someone knowledgeable pipes up. Nonetheless, it is a fun line which winds up being a touch more challenging than it looks.
From all the rock scratch marks, there are bunches of different starts available depending on the ice. From some pictures, it looks like it can be pure ice for the first half. Or, you can start to the right in a sort of chimney. Take this up to a sort of stance below the shallow dihedral. This is where it gets more challenging. Scratch up the corner with occasional tool and crampon placements on the dribble that can form on the left wall. Up higher, there is a longer reach to the double stein pulls just before popping over the itty, bitty roof.
This is a good pump for a little route.
From all the rock scratch marks, there are bunches of different starts available depending on the ice. From some pictures, it looks like it can be pure ice for the first half. Or, you can start to the right in a sort of chimney. Take this up to a sort of stance below the shallow dihedral. This is where it gets more challenging. Scratch up the corner with occasional tool and crampon placements on the dribble that can form on the left wall. Up higher, there is a longer reach to the double stein pulls just before popping over the itty, bitty roof.
This is a good pump for a little route.
Location
This is on the left side of the lower right cliff band. It starts to the left of the 2 bolt mixed line which is left of the hanging pillar.
Protection
2 bolt anchor above provides a good TR anchor. You can lead up easier ice to the right and then angle left to these bolts. Leading this would probably require good thin crack skills for protecting, maybe pins.
Apparently, Pat Gephart has retrobolted this 10/29/20 with 5 bolts. You likely may want an ice screw or two before getting to the bolts if leading it.
Per Jesse Morehouse: it now has 7 bolts and chain anchors. Depending on conditions, you may want screws or a #5 C4 to protect the climbing to the first bolt.
3 Comments