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Routes in Hoosier Pass/Lincoln Fall

Center Flow Slab WI3+
Chosspector Corner (WW) T M5 PG13
Diamond Couloir, The Mod. Snow
Heche En Gringolandia (WW) T M4-
Jensen's Crack WI5 M6
Left Crag Mixed Lines T WI3-4 M4- R
Lincoln Falls Minor T WI4-
Low Angle Left Slab T WI2-3
Main Flow Right T WI4
Not in the Brochure? WI5+ M6 PG13
Panty Peeler (WW) T M3-4 Mod. Snow
Random Mixed WI4 M4-5
Scottish Ale? TR M6
Scottish Gully T WI3
Sheep Skin Protection (WW) T M4 Mod. Snow PG13
Sickle on a Stick (aka Newt's Veil) T,TR WI5
Sleepy Hallow T WI4 M3 Steep Snow
Thin Pin (WW) T M5+ Steep Snow
Traffic Avoidance aka Left of Scottish Gully T WI2-3
Wasi'chu Gallows (WW) T M4 A1
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Type: Ice, 150 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,218 total · 35/month
Shared By: J. Fox on Dec 15, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a fun and easy little route that starts just right of a hanging column of ice to the right of Scottish Gully, in the middle of the flows, Center Flow, and slightly down hill from the Right Flow.

The first section is steep, near vert and climbs for about 30' to a lower angle ledge system. From there the route turns slightly to climbers left and continues up another very steep section for another 30' or so before easing off to a lower angle ice slab heading towards some trees.

You can belay from the trees, living as of December, 2008. Bring up your second and then stow your rope and climb another 70' pitch of low angle ice that brings you above the WI4 Right Flow pillar. Walk off to the right (north) and back down to the start.

Location

Center part of the Ice Falls area, between Scottish Gully and Main Flow Right.

Protection

Ice screws, even the longest ones will work here depending on the thickness of the ice of course. I used a 60m rope and made it to the trees where I belayed. (see yellow/blue circle in route photo.) Anchor with slings low on the trees.
Buff Johnson  
 
You can mix it at the start and take a pillar from WI4- to M6/7 WI6 depending on conditions; with the harder starts, most just belay from screws or a set of bolts on the left and make it a 2 pitch climb continuing up on the right of the main headwall as well instead of traversing out. Dec 15, 2008

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