Type: Trad, Ice, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 10,239 total · 49/month
Shared By: Peter Holcombe on Oct 27, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


95 Opinions

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Description

This is the longest continuous piece of ice up there. It is in the gully on the left side.

P1. Go up the cascade with short bulges to the gully.

P2. Continue up the gully to trees or spots under headwall. These pitches can be combined.

P3. Finish up the headwall, you can pick your grade here from EZ to WI4-.

Belay on bolts found on the sides of a boulder on the top.

Eds. This has been named the Bowling Alley, Scottish Gully, Lincoln Falls Major, and probably many other things. This original post will serve to represent the obvious, long, ice gully.

Protection

Screws & slings for tree belays.
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Never could quite understand the distinct lines from Roberts' "Colorado Ice." There is a nice variation that we followed David Sweet up. Once you get into the lower angle stuff of the main flow about 110 feet up, look L and find an inviting thinnish, lower-angled runnel in a corner. 35 feet. Not hard but just plain fun. Pins, stubbies, or threads for pro. Oct 26, 2002
Climbed at Lincoln Falls Monday, November 18. Ice was in thick both the left and right main flows. Big pillar to the far right was all the way down and thick, but with a visible horizontal fracture at mid height. Terrific conditions. Very fat. Nov 20, 2002
There is a great mixed line climbers right of the piller pictured below.It is all trad & a bit ran out in the start. One of the best mixed lines around the area. Bring stoppers & small cams. There is a fixed pin 12ft off the ground, this is your first piece of gear. The rest of the climb is a splitter steep crack to a ice curtian finnish. Most climbers toprope this mixed line for good reason. M-7, WI5, 3 stars. Aug 20, 2003
As of Saturday, the ice was coming in great. The slabs on the far right were conected and the area to the far left had created a nice curtain and a couple of exceptional pillars. However, it was so crowded that would definitely recomend getting there on a week day or getting an early start. Nov 15, 2004
Scott Rogers
Moab, UT
Scott Rogers   Moab, UT
I like this route a lot.... One of my favorites. Apr 3, 2006
T-Bob
  WI3-
T-Bob  
  WI3-
A really fun route which is mostly easier than WI3. I've been up there a few times over the past couple of years now and have learned a few lessons. 1. Bring a belay jacket. The wind gets moving up there and it gets cold while your waiting around or belaying. 2. This is a very popular route and more so on the weekends. The gully flushes every bit of debris right down to the bottom so set up accordingly and don't get angry with the folks above you. This is inherent to this type of route. 3. In very cold conditions the road leading in can get VERY slippery. Be sure you can get back out before you go in. We didn't get any cell reception up there. Jul 30, 2007
Jason Antin
Golden, CO
  WI3-
Jason Antin   Golden, CO
  WI3-
Super fun day @ Lincoln Falls today, certainly not "packed", but there were about 14 cars to hit the lot throughout the day.

I did notice 4 parties rappel the Scottish Gully during peak traffic hours.

I expressed my confusion to a friend who suggested: "Maybe they don't know about the walk-off?"

So. From now on, there is a walk-off to climber's RIGHT. It takes less than 5 minutes! Please do not make the Scottish Gully more than of a "Bowling Alley" than it has to be, especially on a busy Sunday.

If you need step-by-step directions of the walk-off, please PM me. I'd be happy to talk you through it.

J Nov 30, 2014
Hello,

I have lost one pair of Black Diamonds which I had rented from the school on 1/31/2016 when I was climbing in this area. Please help to find it.

Thank you,

Sepideh Feb 8, 2016
Chapin LaChance
Breckenridge, CO
Chapin LaChance   Breckenridge, CO
Climbed 3/11/17 and added two quicklinks for rappelling to the 2nd chain anchor on climber's left, below the headwall. There may have been others on the chain, but they were buried below the ice, and we thought it poor form to rappel directly off the chains. Please note: we did not bring a wrench, so these were hand tightened only. I will try to get back this season, but if another climber could bring a wrench and tighten the quicklinks, it would be appreciated. Mar 13, 2017