Type: | Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
FA: | Jim Hall & Colin Lantz - 1992 |
Page Views: | 1,355 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Josh Janes on Dec 23, 2007 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
The continuation of Railing. Unfortunately there is some suspect rock (in fact I ripped off a huge hold) at both of the cruxes which detracts from the otherwise very cool climbing.
From Railing's anchor, head up an arete feature past two bolts to a short-lived runout up under the first roof. Clip the bolt at the lip off of a large, hollow hold (if this were to rip off before clipping you'd be screwed, but some small wires could alleviate this otherwise DFU section). Pull the technical crux of the route above. Up higher is a second roof which presents the physical crux of the climb, even with the kneebars.
From Railing's anchor, head up an arete feature past two bolts to a short-lived runout up under the first roof. Clip the bolt at the lip off of a large, hollow hold (if this were to rip off before clipping you'd be screwed, but some small wires could alleviate this otherwise DFU section). Pull the technical crux of the route above. Up higher is a second roof which presents the physical crux of the climb, even with the kneebars.
Protection
All in all, 5 bolts and an anchor plus the stuff on Railing. The PG-13 designation could be disregarded with a couple small wires.
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