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Routes in The Industrial Wall

Auctioneer, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Driver Eight S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Judon't Wanna Go There S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Judon't Wanna Vogue S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
Jumping Someone Else's Train S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Mudblood T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Railing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Railslide S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Rogue S 5.14- 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Soul Train S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Spike S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
T.G.V. S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Terminal S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Terminal Velocity S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Tunnel Vision S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Vogue S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Chris Weidner
Page Views: 3,907 total, 25/month
Shared By: Chris Weidner on Jan 13, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Private Property issues Details

Description

Rogue is a variation finish to the existing testpiece Vogue 14b. It climbs through the first desperate crux of Vogue, which involves slapping up both sides of an overhanging refrigerator on excellent rock. A strenuous rest can be found after clipping the ninth bolt. Instead of tackling Vogue's second crux just above, Rogue traverses left for 10 feet on sharp crimps, then fires through a roof using flared hand jams and small edges. There are 2 widely-spaced bolts after traversing left from Vogue.

Both routes were bolted and attempted by George Squibb in the early nineties, but Vogue wasn't redpointed until 1999 by Tommy Caldwell. Rogue remained incomplete, primarily because it is an easier variation to the original line, and would be a 'why bother' for the three men who have sent Vogue. It is published as "Alternate Finish" on p. 92 of Rossiter's guidebook to Eldorado Canyon. Both George Squibb (redpoints 14b) and Justen Sjong (Vogue - 2nd ascent) confirm the grade of Rogue to be 14a.

The climbing on this route is superb, and although it is not an independent line, Rogue remains a worthwhile and challenging addition to the sport climbing at the Industrial Wall.

Protection

11 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

Nice work Chris! May 3, 2005
Yes, I am claiming the FFA (First Free Ascent). Apr 7, 2005
So Chris, as I understand it you are claiming the FFA? Or no? Mar 30, 2005