Turnbuckle
V1+ YDS 5 Font
| Type: | Boulder, 12 ft (4 m) |
| GPS: | 34.00964, -116.16705 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,696 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 9, 2007 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Start with both hands in a high undercling/lieback flake and smeared feet, shorter people will be at a disadvantage here, to work into the undercling then make a reach over the lip for a grainy flake and finish with an easy mantle. An easy descent is found on the opposite (east) side of the boulder.
Rated V3 in the JT Bouldering guide, but this problem seems much easier than that and doesn't compare to similarly rated problems.



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