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Main Wall
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Type: | Trad, 470 ft (142 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
FA: | P.L.Roberts, J.K.Cooke 1935 |
Page Views: | 1,438 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Chris Owen on Dec 1, 2007 |
Admins: | Chris Owen, Euan Cameron |
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Description
One of Britain's best severes - a long and exposed expedition which although technically easy goes through some pretty steep and spectacular terrain. Simply wonderful.
1) 70ft 5.6. Left up a slab to a grassy ledge. Up a short corner across another slab then step around an edge on the right and go up to a pulpit ledge.
2) 80ft 5.7. Traverse right and up along a Pitch 2 of Main Wall. (c) Marc Chrysanthou. I once took a blood curdling fall from the harder groove on the left, going the wrong way. to a chimney, a few moves up this lead to a left traverse along a ledge to a piton belay in a corner on the edge of the buttress.
3) 45ft 5.6. Up the arete then up and right to a large triangular ledge.
4) 90ft 5.7. Steep and intricate! Climb to the top of the The pinnacle on Pitch 4 (c) Marc Chrysanthou on the left. Now head leftwards across the steep wall and into an alcove. Traverse left around the edge and climb a steep arete, across a chinmey to small slab and belay.
5) 80ft 5.6. Up to an overhang then left to the base of a Pitch 5 slab. (c) M.C. - climb the left side of this in a fantastic position.
6) 100ft. Easier ground to the end of the climb.
1) 70ft 5.6. Left up a slab to a grassy ledge. Up a short corner across another slab then step around an edge on the right and go up to a pulpit ledge.
2) 80ft 5.7. Traverse right and up along a Pitch 2 of Main Wall. (c) Marc Chrysanthou. I once took a blood curdling fall from the harder groove on the left, going the wrong way. to a chimney, a few moves up this lead to a left traverse along a ledge to a piton belay in a corner on the edge of the buttress.
3) 45ft 5.6. Up the arete then up and right to a large triangular ledge.
4) 90ft 5.7. Steep and intricate! Climb to the top of the The pinnacle on Pitch 4 (c) Marc Chrysanthou on the left. Now head leftwards across the steep wall and into an alcove. Traverse left around the edge and climb a steep arete, across a chinmey to small slab and belay.
5) 80ft 5.6. Up to an overhang then left to the base of a Pitch 5 slab. (c) M.C. - climb the left side of this in a fantastic position.
6) 100ft. Easier ground to the end of the climb.
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