Main Wall

One of Britain's best severes - a long and exposed expedition which although technically easy goes through some pretty steep and spectacular terrain. Simply wonderful.

1) 70ft 5.6. Left up a slab to a grassy ledge. Up a short corner across another slab then step around an edge on the right and go up to a pulpit ledge.

2) 80ft 5.7. Traverse right and up along a Pitch 2 of Main Wall. (c) Marc Chrysanthou. I once took a blood curdling fall from the harder groove on the left, going the wrong way. to a chimney, a few moves up this lead to a left traverse along a ledge to a piton belay in a corner on the edge of the buttress.

3) 45ft 5.6. Up the arete then up and right to a large triangular ledge.

4) 90ft 5.7. Steep and intricate! Climb to the top of the The pinnacle on Pitch 4 (c) Marc Chrysanthou on the left. Now head leftwards across the steep wall and into an alcove. Traverse left around the edge and climb a steep arete, across a chinmey to small slab and belay.

5) 80ft 5.6. Up to an overhang then left to the base of a Pitch 5 slab. (c) M.C. - climb the left side of this in a fantastic position.

6) 100ft. Easier ground to the end of the climb.

The bottom of the left side of the crag below a traingular roof.

Nuts work fine.