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Main Wall

5.7, Trad, 470 ft (142 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 3.8 from 9 votes
FA: P.L.Roberts, J.K.Cooke 1935
International > Europe > United Kingdom > Wales > Eryri NP > Llanberis Pass > S Side > Cyrn Las

Description

One of Britain's best severes - a long and exposed expedition which although technically easy goes through some pretty steep and spectacular terrain. Simply wonderful.

1) 70ft 5.6. Left up a slab to a grassy ledge. Up a short corner across another slab then step around an edge on the right and go up to a pulpit ledge.

2) 80ft 5.7. Traverse right and up along a

to a chimney, a few moves up this lead to a left traverse along a ledge to a piton belay in a corner on the edge of the buttress.

3) 45ft 5.6. Up the arete then up and right to a large triangular ledge.

4) 90ft 5.7. Steep and intricate! Climb to the top of the

on the left. Now head leftwards across the steep wall and into an alcove. Traverse left around the edge and climb a steep arete, across a chinmey to small slab and belay.

5) 80ft 5.6. Up to an overhang then left to the base of a

- climb the left side of this in a fantastic position.

6) 100ft. Easier ground to the end of the climb.

Location

The bottom of the left side of the crag below a traingular roof.

Protection

Nuts work fine.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pitch 5 slab. (c) M.C.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 5 slab. (c) M.C.
The pinnacle on Pitch 4 (c) Marc Chrysanthou
[Hide Photo] The pinnacle on Pitch 4 (c) Marc Chrysanthou
Pitch 2 of Main Wall. (c) Marc Chrysanthou. I once took a blood curdling fall from the harder groove on the left, going the wrong way.
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2 of Main Wall. (c) Marc Chrysanthou. I once took a blood curdling fall from the harder groove on the left, going the wrong way.