Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,983 total · 15/month
Shared By: Joe Lee on Nov 1, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

13 Opinions

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Starts with a straight in hand crack with some finger locks on a steep face. Pass a very old ring on a piton before making some sport moves to a fun mantle. On pitch two climb a short wide crack to the left. Continue up discontinuous cracks and then follow a low angle arete to fixed anchors at the peak. This last section is unprotected (and therefore the R rating) but pretty easy.


This route is located on the left side of the Gardener's Wall. Look for a dark water stain that gives the false impression of a corner. Getting to the start is a pain in the ..... You can't walk along the base of the wall to get to and from the routes on the right. So approach the route from the left or any way that works. Note that there is a short section of wide class five climbing to get on top of the boulder where the start of the route lies.


Bring a standard rack up to a fist size piece. Build a gear anchor at the top of pitch one. There are fixed anchors at the top of pitch two. I walked off so I'm not sure if you can lower with one rope. Two ropes should get you down safely.
Sam Prentice  
The lower half of the first pitch is absolutely stellar, steep, continuous 5.7. Among the best climbing at that grade you'll encounter anywhere, albeit over too soon. The easy but exposed arete finish makes this climb more than a one pitch wonder.

Their respective length differences aside, I wish this climb was adjacent to mental physics, so people could feel how a real four star 5.7 presents itself.

Combine this climb with Renaissance direct and your half-day is prime for smiles. Mar 29, 2009
Tim Heid
Tim Heid   AZ
That first pitch was a lot of fun, the steep and thin climbing is great. The second pitch is enjoyable as well, with a variety of moves from thin to wide. Save a 2 or 3 for the last horizontal placement before the R section. The R section is about 30' of very easy arete climbing at probably 5.3. Don't sweat it and just go for it.

I found the easiest way to get to the base of the climb is to climb Renaissance Direct or Hanging Gardern's and walk over to the Phatom's anchors. Double rope rap onto the last boulder. You'll avoid the awkward wide climbing to get on top of the starting boulder.

Gear to 3". Bring 2 #3's for the gear anchor on top of pitch 1, although other creative options will work. Feb 6, 2012