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Routes in Gardeners Wall

Broken Knob Job aka unknown crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brusin' and Cruisin' T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
First Impressions T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gobs of Nobs S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hanging Gardens T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Hanging Tough T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Kreuser's Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Lickety Split S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Phantom missed the Opera, The T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Phantom, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Renaissance Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
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Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: Pete Noebels, Dennis Abbink, Larry Treiber
Page Views: 949 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tim Heid on Feb 6, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Access Issue: Access: Details

Description

Start on the 3rd class ramp of Hanging Gardens, but move right into the giant flake about 25' up.

Bruise you way up if you want to climb it like an offwidth and be prepared for a fight. Or Cruise it and take the more enjoyable way up, having a blast liebacking up for a long ways.

Most of it is very secure, but a short section about halfway through is a bit tougher. Get through this and cruise to where the flake ends. Then traverse left to meet up with the last 20' of Hanging Garden's.

Leading this would be pretty heinous and require a lot of really large gear. The best way to enjoy the climb is to set up a TR after climbing the first pitch of Hanging Garden's.

Added:
There is also a second pitch to this route that starts up the second pitch crack of Hanging Gardens, then veers up the face above. There's an old bolt up there somewhere as well as the occasional pro possibility (you have to wander a bit to get gear).

Location

Start is same as Hanging Garden's and right where the approach trail meets the wall.

Protection

Gear: Big cams, Big Bro's, etc if you are going to try and lead it. Plus a handful of hand size pieces for the last section. A 60m rope works, but barely. A 70m is better.

Anchor: 2 bolt anchor with chains

Photos

You can safely lead this route with cams to size #4 and nuts. Some rotten rock near the middle section. Down low seemed more difficult than near the top of the chimney/crack. The exit out of the system to gain the chains is exciting. Nov 11, 2016

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