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Routes in Viewfinder Towers

Bensass T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Devil Tower- South Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Formation: Castle Ardbeg. Route: The Whiskey Tour T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Johnny Hanksville of Mars T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Log T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Planet X, via the route Problicom Motion 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2+
Power Chords T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1-2
Princess Bong T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
South Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Strummer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Ben Folsom and Maura Hahnenberger Oct. 14, 2007
Page Views: 168 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben Folsom on Oct 15, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Start below the chimbley system on the right side of the North Face. Climb steep pockets to reach the first gear at about 20 feet. Continue up the chimney. After the chimney, climb right past some precarious blobs then up to a two bolt anchor a few feet below the summit.

Location

This small hoodoo tower is located in the Viewfinder Towers area about 10 miles north of Hanksville Utah on Utah 24. Just north of the view area is a dirt road heading West. Drive down this dirt road approx. 1/2 mile and the tower is the closest tower on the south side of the dirt road. Park and walk about 200 feet to the base of the tower. The route is on the right side of the North Face and climbs an obvious chimney system.

Protection

Cams from #0.5 camalot to #3.5 camalot. Stoppers. There are some great, bomber stopper placements on this route. Above the first 20 feet of unprotected climbing, the gear is very good.

Photos

AnnieT  
Climbed the West(ish) side this weekend- up a slab to some obvious crack system before traversing left to the bolts above BF's route. We should have brought a bolt kit because the bolts at the top are pretty eroded out- one of them wiggles quite a bit and would likely come out with a swift kick- the other is ok but the sandstone is cracking all around it. I'm lightweight and there was a lot of friction so I got down safely but we decided my partner probably shouldn't follow suit. Cute little tower tho for you fellow desert weirdos. Mar 13, 2017
Is Meat Log the name of the tower or the route/both? Ithought this was either the sandy duncan or crooked penis. We did a route on the north(? left side in the summit picture) side of this tower this morning,
The route as described here seems like it's the wider stuff on the opposite side of the tower from where the summit photo was taken. We rapped down that side(the side the anchors are on).

Are there any other known routes on this tower?

Also there's a v0-v1- on the boulder to the left of the photo, I dubbed it "Get Pricked" (the start is covered in thorns and stickerweeds.) though it's very short and has probably been done several times before (near sit start on the steep side). Anyone know if these have been done and to whose credit? Mar 18, 2012