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Routes in Viewfinder Towers

Bensass T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Devil Tower- South Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Formation: Castle Ardbeg. Route: The Whiskey Tour T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Johnny Hanksville of Mars T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Log T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Planet X, via the route Problicom Motion 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2+
Power Chords T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1-2
Princess Bong T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
South Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Strummer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Type: Aid, 140 ft, 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Steve Bartlett, solo, December 2003
Page Views: 1,164 total, 7/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Planet X is located a few miles north of Hanksville, on the east side of the road, a half-mile south of the Viewfinder Towers pullout. It is a nice free-standing formation. Approaching from north or south, it looks like a pyramid, but is very thin viewed edge on.

The climbing is thought-provoking Fisher-Tower-style aiding on a fine-grained Entrada sandstone. It follows a series of mostly splitter cracks, in mostly "good" rock, to the summit. The climbing is a lot of fun; some tricky placements, yet regular bomber pieces. The ambience is pleasant; a roadside location, yet with a quaint backwoods feel. So maybe more or less worthy of two stars. The first ascent was spread over two afternoons, but they sure seem to go quick in mid-December.

The route starts in the middle of the north face. The pitch meanders; watch out for rope drag. The two belay/rappel bolts are 4" x 1/2" Rawls.

1. Follow a bulging crack angling up and left to a ledge, from where a thinner crack gains a rotten band, fifty feet up. Step right to another good crack, which leads to a higher rotten band. Continue to better rock, and tension right to a ledge and a final crack leading to the two-bolt rappel/belay station (100', A2+).2. Step high, then throw a length of rope around the summit block. Tie this off, and belly up onto the summit (10', 5.5).Descent: Downclimb to the belay. Rappel 110' down the north face.

Protection

Gear: Three or four sets of cams from the smallest to #4 Friend. Two #4 Camalots, one each #4.5 and #5 Camalot. Ball Nuts, wires (with extra medium sizes), 2 Toucans, 1 Bugaboo, 4 Lost Arrows, 2 Standard Angles, extra shoulder-length slings.

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