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Routes in Viewfinder Towers

Bensass T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Devil Tower- South Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Formation: Castle Ardbeg. Route: The Whiskey Tour T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Johnny Hanksville of Mars T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Log T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Planet X, via the route Problicom Motion 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2+
Power Chords T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1-2
Princess Bong T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
South Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Strummer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Type: Trad, Aid, 190 ft, 3 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Crusher, Strappo, October 18, 2012
Page Views: 772 total, 13/month
Shared By: Steve "Crusher" Bartlett on Dec 6, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Start on the bubbly south face. Route works up and leftwards, ending in a southwest-facing chimney slot at the top. First pitch is great, other pitches not so much. Exploring the summit area labyrinth is much fun. If this cleans up it might go free.

P1: Climb steep pockets for 20 feet to ledge. Gain a ledge and move left into a right-facing dihedral with roof at top. Up this, mantel onto big ledge on left and build a belay (5.8+R, 50’). A fun pitch on surprisingly good rock!
P2: Angle left (5.8) into the leftmost of three cracks. Aid this to end, over bulges to a big ledge system and a two-bolt belay (5.8, A2, 50’).
P3: Move up and left with care, around some dubious blocks, into a chimney. Up this to a two-bolt belay (5.7, A1, 50’).
From here the true summit is some distance away. Negotiate crenelations and secret passageways to get there (4th-class with one aid move, 150’).

Location

This is a semi-detached blocky formation in the Viewfinder Towers area, a few miles north of Hanksville. Castle Ardbeg sits on the east side of the road, between Strummer and Planet X, at the far right end of the cliffs behind Planet X, recognizable by the distinctive “drawbridge” feature connecting it to the main cliff-face.

Protection

Cams: 2-3 sets from green Alien to #4 Friend, optional Valley Giant for P3.
Nuts: 2 sets (three on pitch 2 were tapped into place with hammer).
Pitons: 1 Tomahawk (small). 3-4 LA/baby angles could substitute for the tapped “stopperheads”.
Quickdraws and slings to prevent ropedrag.

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