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Routes in Viewfinder Towers

Bensass T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Dirty Devil Tower- South Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Formation: Castle Ardbeg. Route: The Whiskey Tour T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2
Johnny Hanksville of Mars T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meat Log T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Planet X, via the route Problicom Motion 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2+
Power Chords T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1-2
Princess Bong T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
South Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Strummer 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Ben Folsom & Kathleen Stone
Page Views: 1,273 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Mar 13, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

This route climbs a crack system to a chimney then to top on the east face. A thin hands crack leads through some steep soft rock as well as slabby soft rock. Some of it loose, with a large hollow, but attached rock just below chimney. Belay at three bolt anchor in chimney that is not visible from below. From anchor, scramble/fourth class to top, 10’.

Note: There are several other options for reaching the top of this tower on the north side and west side. Also, this route may have gone free, I was alone and scared so I aid soloed.

Location

This tower is just southwest of Brigham Butte. It is short and squat with a chimney on the upper east face. It doesn’t earn a sighting tube.

Protection

Nuts, #.5 BD to #4.5 BD with several #3, #2, and #.75. I also used a red tricam.

Photos

Tyson Taylor
  5.10a
Tyson Taylor  
  5.10a
Did this tower a couple days ago. It went free at 5.10ish with the crux being finding stable feet for the first couple moves. I noticed there's rabbit poo at the top... makes you wonder. It's probably some kind of bird that leaves similar looking droppings though. While belaying on these towers, I feel like one of those early, scrolling graphic, obstacle dodging, car racing games; like on an old Atari.

They should put a viewfinder on top of this tower.(not serious of course) Great views though. May 9, 2011
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
 
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
 
Ben, thanks for the update and first ascent info. I have updated the description. Jan 22, 2011
If only my ass looked so good...
Other than this and Meat Log, I haven't done any other first ascents in the immediate vicinity. Dec 7, 2010
Darren Knezek
  5.10b
Darren Knezek  
  5.10b
There's no such thing as a dumpy tower, they all kick ass!!
Speaking off ass, does your ass really look like this tower? :)

Plus, I thought that this one was harder than Meat Log.

What other FA's in this area are you holding out on?

If and when this cleans up a little more, it will make a really fun lead for a lot of climbers. Dec 6, 2010
I did the FA of this little dumpy tower with Kathleen Stone in either 2000 or 2001. We called the formation "Bensass" and we climbed the East Face which we rated 5.9. I remember drilling that three bolt belay. It was in some pretty soft rock, I guess that's why I put in three. Dec 6, 2010
Erik Peet
Provo, UT
  5.10
Erik Peet   Provo, UT
  5.10
This route goes free at 5.10. Pretty fun climb. Dec 5, 2010