Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Snake Buttress
|
Dr Demento's Descending Demise T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Geek Crack T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Go for it Lulu T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Hairless T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Hodge Podge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Hubba Bubba T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
IIlusion Chain T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Jo Bubba S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Mr. Pitiful T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Rude Boy AKA Rue Boy T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
|
|
Seven Sharp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Sidewinder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Tronolane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
|
|
Viper, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m), Grade II |
| GPS: | 39.42158, -105.24641 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,273 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Fremont Shields on Oct 14, 2007 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure - at least until Aug. 15, 2025
Details
Ornithologists across the Front Range have noted that migration and the onset of the avian breeding season seemed to be delayed by around 7-10 days this year, possibly because of the timing and amount of spring precipitation. The peregrines at Cathedral laid eggs later than usual. Because of that, their nestlings may not be ready to leave the nest by the time our usual seasonal closure would end, after July 31. As such, the closure this year will remain until at least August 15 (an opening of August 16). This should give the nestlings the time they need to finish development and leave the nest area.
2023 info: jeffco.us/1531/Alerts-Closures
The Cathedral Spires area, including Block Tower, Cynical Pinnacle, Snake Buttress, the Dome, Hall of Mirrors, Sunshine Wall, and Poe Buttress, are closed annually starting March 1 for raptor nesting. After careful monitoring of nest sites, Jefferson County Open Space opens certain areas of Cathedral Spires and maintain spot closures for active nests through July 31st. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates: jeffco.us/open-space/parks/…
Note, JeffCo Open Space has notified us that access to The Bishop and Poop Point (along with all the Cathedral Spires Area) currently goes across JeffCo OS land. Despite information in some guidebooks (published or soon-to-be-published), the entire Cathedral Spires area is subject raptor nesting closures. Please be aware of the hefty fines associated with failure to observe these regulations.
Description
This route starts near a hole in the talus base and below an obvious, right-trending corner that takes a 90 degree turn back to the left at half way to the anchors.
This is an okay warmup, and it protects well. A single, wide piece 5" is optional near where the route jogs back to the left. The crux is the 30 feet section where it starts back left. This protects well with finger-sized cams and a large stopper. Near the top, find a jag in the crack for a nice stance and be a good leader and clip a double-length runner to a tough to see bolt over the lip of the overhang. This isn't really for your safety, but for your second. Then traverse an easy ledge straight left twenty feet to the anchors.
This anchor is in good shape. Two 1/4" bolts and a modern 3/8" are the hardware. When I climbed this 10/13/07, I replaced the slings with a triple equalized set of rings on green 9mm cord. This route and others I spotted on the crag all had sling anchors, so it's not a bad idea to bring webbing to replace the south-facing bleached out slings you'll find. The anchors I found were mostly single rap rings and I added a ring in addition to the slings I replaced.
DESCENT: !!!ROPE WARNING!!! Rappel 85 feet to ground. A 60m would reach fine, but tie ends if using a 50m. TOP ROPERS: You CANNOT toprope this climb with a single 50m cord and even a 60m would be close. I had a 70m and it only had 20 feet left when I was lowered due to the directionals I left for my second.
3 Comments