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Routes in Snake Buttress

Dr Demento's Descending Demise T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Geek Crack T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Go for it Lulu T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairless T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hodge Podge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hubba Bubba T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
IIlusion Chain T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jo Bubba S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Pitiful T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rude Boy AKA Rue Boy T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Seven Sharp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Tronolane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Viper, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 540 total, 4/month
Shared By: Fremont Shields on Oct 14, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route starts near a hole in the talus base and below an obvious, right-trending corner that takes a 90 degree turn back to the left at half way to the anchors.

This is an okay warmup, and it protects well. A single, wide piece 5" is optional near where the route jogs back to the left. The crux is the 30 feet section where it starts back left. This protects well with finger-sized cams and a large stopper. Near the top, find a jag in the crack for a nice stance and be a good leader and clip a double-length runner to a tough to see bolt over the lip of the overhang. This isn't really for your safety, but for your second. Then traverse an easy ledge straight left twenty feet to the anchors.

This anchor is in good shape. Two 1/4" bolts and a modern 3/8" are the hardware. When I climbed this 10/13/07, I replaced the slings with a triple equalized set of rings on green 9mm cord. This route and others I spotted on the crag all had sling anchors, so it's not a bad idea to bring webbing to replace the south-facing bleached out slings you'll find. The anchors I found were mostly single rap rings and I added a ring in addition to the slings I replaced.

DESCENT: !!!ROPE WARNING!!! Rappel 85 feet to ground. A 60m would reach fine, but tie ends if using a 50m. TOP ROPERS: You CANNOT toprope this climb with a single 50m cord and even a 60m would be close. I had a 70m and it only had 20 feet left when I was lowered due to the directionals I left for my second.

Location

Rappel diagonally 85 feet to the ground. A single 50m might not make it, and the last bit is a slick slab.

Protection

Single set, fingers to hand sized cams. Light set of stoppers.

Photos

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Rodger Raubach  
  5.7
The rock seems more compact and polished than some other South Platte formations, such as The Dome, and Squat Rock. This was a decent climb, but we didn't get to do any other routes that day--too darned HOT. Mar 16, 2011
slim

  5.7
slim    
  5.7
Good point, Jason. If I remember correctly, the ground drops away to the left. The route angles left as you go up, so you end up directly above the higher ground. Oct 16, 2009
Please be very careful when rappelling off this anchor. The post above (and Trout's book) says this is an 85ft rappel and that a 60meter rope works fine. I made this rap straight down the face (just left of The Viper) and I barely had any rope left on a 70meter. Maybe you can angle more right with a 60meter? I don't know... be careful. Oct 16, 2009