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Routes in Snake Buttress

Dr Demento's Descending Demise T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Geek Crack T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Go for it Lulu T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairless T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hodge Podge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hubba Bubba T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
IIlusion Chain T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jo Bubba S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Pitiful T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rude Boy AKA Rue Boy T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Seven Sharp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Tronolane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Viper, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 130 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 62 total, 0/month
Shared By: Joe Keyser on Sep 13, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This route starts on the left side of Snake Buttress, about 40 feet to the right of the start of Hodge Podge, and just left of the route _Hubba Bubba_. There are two or three ways you could start this pitch. You could probably start near Hodge Podge, and traverse right to the slab, or start on the right up broken cracks, or a more direct start up an awesome curving finger crack (recommended). The finger crack disappears into a couple of difficult slab moves to a mantle into an easy squeeze chimney. This start is probably 5.11ish. Once on top of the short chimney, you will be about 30-40 feet off the ground, and below a smooth steepening slab with no pro. Continue straight up the very smooth slab (5.10c R) for about 100 feet to the anchors on top of the first pitch of Hodge Podge. There is no one show stopper move on this slab, but, it would certainly be an exciting lead since the biggest _hold_ is about the size of a dime, and you definitely wouldn't want to fall on either of the two well spaced, well rusted bolts. Great climbing on this pitch, and it is easily TR'd if you don't want to risk it. (Note: you can access the top of the pitch by scrambling in to the mid height ledge from the left.)

To get to Snake Buttress, keep heading North past the normal parking for the Cynical Pinnacle parking area, for about 1/4 to 1/2 mile. Park in a pullout on the East side of the road (by the river). You will be directly below the rock, and will see it as you drive up to the parking spot. You can spot the crag when you are looking at the back-side of the Cynical Pinnacle, and it will be to the right, and down a bit. Hike directly up the drainage, starting up an old road that is gated (steeper, and longer than it looks), and Snake Buttress will be the second major rock that you encounter. If you keep on the right path, you will encounter a couple of cairns on the way up. As a comparison, the approach is maybe a bit shorter than the approach to Cynical Pinnacle. The buttress contains a good number of bolted slab climbs, and a couple of nice cracks.

Protection

The majority of the route is protected by exactly two rusty 1/4 inch bolts, and a bolt anchor at about 130-140 feet. However, you may get some pro in the start depending on which way you start the route. We TR'd this climb, and started with a sweet finger crack, to slab, to squeeze chimney direct start (5.11?). Going this way, you could probably get a few cams from green alien up to about the .5 or .75 camalot size, in the start. Rap with 2 ropes, or continue with the 2nd pitch of Hodge Podge.

Photos

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Fremont, I climbed your new direct line about a month ago and thought it was good and quite difficult at the start. How hard did you think the start was, 5.11a/b? I actually grounded out from the top of that finger crack/seam when I tugged too hard trying to remove a plant blocking a much desired gear placement below the first bolt. Anyway, I did not find an anchor atop that short, weird offwdith/chimney thing but found it easy to continue up and left into the original line, doing it as a single pitch to gain the bolted anchor atop P1 of Hodge Podge. Oct 31, 2009
In 2007 I contacted Olaf about my intentions to do some bolt replacement work at this crag. Olaf asked about the current events in the Platte, and we had a great conversation about this crag and its history. He was also very supportive of the work Kevin has been doing to replace the aging bolts at various crags in the area. In his words, "we placed those bolts for the first ascent".

I post this comment just to record that I asked him if it would be okay to add new bolts to this route. After deciding how many would be appropriate and where they'd be placed, he said it was okay with him to add a bolt, or perhaps two. I ended up placing one new bolt between the two existing bolts where no other natural protection could be placed. There is a horizontal seam just above the [new] second bolt, but it would not take a KB. The addition of this bolt removes the "X" rating of this route but it remains a thrilling, just not deadly, lead.

A point for clarity, the original line of Ride 'em Rue Boy begins with the first 20-30 feet of the right diagonal-ing crack of Tronolane, then steps down and traverses right to the first bolt of Rude Boy. This bolt is almost level with the top of the right diagonaling crack of Tronolane, but out right and a few feet higher.

There is also a new, direct line from the ground merging into the first bolt of Rude Boy after ~70 feet. This line had been previously top-roped, but never lead according to various Platte connoisseurs. It is an independent start established placing natural protection on aid and drilling from hooks ground up. Atop the large flake with the chimney behind it is a two bolt anchor. From a belay at this anchor you can climb up and left to a bolt (this hole alone was hand drilled on rappel by me on a separate day). Clipping this bolt gets you safely over the bulge, then the leader can continue up and left on easier ground to merge with the original line of Rude Boy. The crux of this start is passing the first bolt about 20 feet off the ground. Oct 31, 2009
Olaf Mitchell
Paia, Maui, Hi,
Olaf Mitchell   Paia, Maui, Hi,
Maurice Reed and I put this one and I think we called it "Ride um Rueboy"
This was done during the same time period that we put up "Hubba Bubba"
It was a magic period for the Platte there was just so much to do. Mar 26, 2007