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Routes in Snake Buttress

Dr Demento's Descending Demise T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Geek Crack T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Go for it Lulu T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairless T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hodge Podge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hubba Bubba T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
IIlusion Chain T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jo Bubba S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Pitiful T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rude Boy AKA Rue Boy T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Seven Sharp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Tronolane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Viper, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 270 total · 2/month
Shared By: slim on Mar 15, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Geek Crack is an OK route that starts off with grungy climbing to get up to a thin seam/crack in a slab, about 100' up. The seam/crack portion is pretty fun.

Start on the same tombstone flake as for 'Illusion Chain' (far right side of buttress, just left of low lying roofs). Scramble up, zig-zagging a bit to find the path of least resistance, as well as 2 or 3 bolts and possible supplemental gear until you get to a bushy ledge just below the seam. Clip a buttonhead and make a tricky step up over a small roof to get established. Ease your way up the seam, protecting with small cams and wires. Microstoppers (i.e. RPs, BD micro, HB offset) are helpful. After about 20 feet, it eases up and you can cruise easily to the same anchors as for 'Illusion Chain'.

Location

The far right side of snake buttress, just left of the large roof that is 20' feet off the ground, and just right of a slot /gully /chimney /dihedral sort of thing.

Protection

Several bolts, good ones down low, but an old buttonhead at the crux getting over the small roof. A good selection of wires and micro wires, tcus or aliens, and a light rack of cams to hand sized.

Photos

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Jeff Bryan
Cortez, co
Jeff Bryan   Cortez, co
If you climb this, I would start on Illusion Cchain and work left to the crack. Why bother with the crap below it. Sep 23, 2008
Jeff Bryan
Cortez, co
Jeff Bryan   Cortez, co
This route was so dirty last year I was gardening the whole way up. Aug 4, 2008