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Routes in Snake Buttress

Dr Demento's Descending Demise T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Geek Crack T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Go for it Lulu T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hairless T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hodge Podge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hubba Bubba T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
IIlusion Chain T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Jo Bubba S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mr. Pitiful T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Rude Boy AKA Rue Boy T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Seven Sharp T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sidewinder T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Tronolane T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Viper, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wake of the Flood T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Pete Hubbel, Greg Hinnen, and Mike Smith, 1982
Page Views: 61 total, 1/month
Shared By: slim on Mar 15, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

Dr. Demento is an interesting, varied route on the far left side of the snake buttress. It is difficult to rate the quality of this route, as it has good climbing that is complicated by old button heads and cat's claw bushes. I put in 3 stars, figuring that other people will put in fewer, and it will even out.

The climb is generally done in 2 pitches, but it actually works better to do it in one. Start behind the big pine tree on the far left (west) side, directly beneath a steep face with 3 old buttonheads. surmount a pinnacle, clip the first bolt, and climb somewhat non-typical, slippery, South Platte granite without exfoliating flakes, 11c.

This gets you up to a bushy ledge with a single buttonhead beneath a large roof. Back this up with good gear ranging from fingers to hands, and move out the right side of the roof into a right-leaning, offset, flared splitter. Follow this up until you can make a belay in the cave above. The pitch takes small hands to big hands/tight fist sized gear, and the belay in the cave can take gear from large stoppers to hand sized pieces. The books give this pitch 11b, but it feels very similar to a lot of the leaning cracks at Vedauwoo that are in the 5.10 range.

From the cave belay, you can climb the rest of Hodge Podge, or you can climb up and left in the cave and prairie dog out a rotten talus hole and do a complicated walk off.

Location

Left side of the Snake Buttress. You can't miss the obvious, right-leaning crack in the left face of the 'Hodge Podge' pitch 1 dihedral.

Protection

3 old buttonheads protect the lower face climbing, gear from #0.5 camalot to #3 Camalot, possibly #3.5 or new #4 Camalot for the crack. Large stoppers to #0.75 Camalot for anchor.

Note that the crack leans hard to the right, and is located in the left face of a lower-angled dihedral. If it is at your limit, it might be best not to run it out too far and pitch off onto the thorn-bush infested slab below.

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