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Routes in Crag X

Baby Lizard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Centre Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Easter Island T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gord's Block T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hevymental S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out to Easter T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out to Lunge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Piece of Pie T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Reptilian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sniffler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snorter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Up From Despair T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Virgin Soil T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: J. Campbell, A. Hughes, 1980
Page Views: 1,095 total, 9/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


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Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot Details

Description

This climb takes the most prominent of the left angling cracks in the face of the lower Crag X wall. A cruxy finger crack is passed before the cracks zigs to the right and up to a ledge. This ledge has a chain belay, but the climb continues for another 30 feet so you have the choice of doing it as one pitch or breaking it up.

Either way, the climb gets harder at this point and the corner crack above the ledge doesn't take good pro until you have made a few moves, but you can protect the moves off the ledge with a .75 camalot in a crack to the right of the corner.

Very strenuous climbing, but with good, if tough to place, gear finishes the climb up the corner.

Location

Start on a nice little terrace at the base of the lower wall of Crag X, just left of the stacked blocks that form the short crack climb Gord's Block.

Protection

A standard rack, with a few doubles of cams in the finger to tight hand sizes and a good selection of small to medium nuts is sufficient. There is a two bolt rap station at the top. Double ropes will take you down, otherwise go to the chains on the ledge and make a second rap. Watch then ends of the rope, even from this intermediate station.

Photos

Wesley Ashwood
Squamish, BC
  5.10b
Wesley Ashwood   Squamish, BC
  5.10b
What a great climb! I have walked past this tons of times and never climbed it. I agree, do it one pitch, way more fun. Extra finger size (blue metolius) to 0.75 is worth it, though the whole thing takes nuts its worth saving a few finger size pieces for the top. Jul 19, 2013
Hans
Squamish, BC
  5.10b
Hans   Squamish, BC
  5.10b
Fantastic climb with great gear throughout. Do it as one pitch for the full experience. The upper part protected very well with small cams. Apr 1, 2013
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b/c PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10b/c PG13
A #5 hb offset protects the initial moves off the ledge before good pro above. It's good enough and high enough to keep you off the ledge if you slip before the bigger crack above.

Doing this as one pitch is the way to go, IMHO. Also, a 70m gets you to the deck in one rap from the top with stretch. Jul 21, 2010
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c
We did this in two pitches, which I would do again. A fall from the crux with 35m of rope out might drop you onto a ledge.

P1 really fun, maybe 10a or so. Expect a section where the gear gets fiddly.

P2 is short but stout. The moves aren't hard, but hanging out and placing gear will definotely get you going.

A great route! Aug 2, 2009