Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: J. Campbell, A. Hughes, 1980
Page Views: 3,204 total · 16/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Sep 1, 2007
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This climb takes the most prominent of the left angling cracks in the face of the lower Crag X wall. A cruxy finger crack is passed before the cracks zigs to the right and up to a ledge. This ledge has a chain belay, but the climb continues for another 30 feet so you have the choice of doing it as one pitch or breaking it up.

Either way, the climb gets harder at this point and the corner crack above the ledge doesn't take good pro until you have made a few moves, but you can protect the moves off the ledge with a .75 camalot in a crack to the right of the corner.

Very strenuous climbing, but with good, if tough to place, gear finishes the climb up the corner.

Location Suggest change

Start on a nice little terrace at the base of the lower wall of Crag X, just left of the stacked blocks that form the short crack climb Gord's Block.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack, with a few doubles of cams in the finger to tight hand sizes and a good selection of small to medium nuts is sufficient. There is a two bolt rap station at the top. Double ropes will take you down, otherwise go to the chains on the ledge and make a second rap. Watch then ends of the rope, even from this intermediate station.