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> British Columbia
> Squamish
> Smoke Bluffs
> Crag X
Payanoia
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Avg: 0.6 from 5
votes
Routes in Crag X
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#vanlife T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Affordable T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Baby Lizard T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bucky-ki-yay T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Centre Street T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Chargex T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Clean Up Woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dark Sarcasm T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Deflowerer, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Easter Island T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fingerlickin' Good T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Four-season T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Friction Addiction S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gloaming, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gord's Block T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Grunt T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hevymental S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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I See Through You T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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In Harmony With Sausage T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jagged Little Pill T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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La Tercera Edad T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Lovely Fish Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Mamquam River Campground S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No Trace T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Non-Profit T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Out to Easter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Out to Lunge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Outer Mongolia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Payanoia T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Piece of Pie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Reptilian T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Retiring Joe S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Side Street T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sniffler T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Snorter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sunny November T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Technician, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ugly Gate, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Up From Despair T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Vies Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Soil T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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X-Ray T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 49.70856, -123.14147 |
| FA: | Drew Brayshaw 1999 |
| Page Views: | 679 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Drew Brayshaw on Nov 15, 2018 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Climb a short 5.8 hand to finger crack and mantle onto an enormous ledge. Clip a bolt on the left side of the arete and then make bouldery moves off the ledge, firstly on the right side of the arete, but moving left to the crest of the arete at the top. Pull onto a slab and climb easily up to the top ledge. Sling trees for an anchor.
An obvious line but spoiled by the huge ledge midway up which basically turns it into two separate boulder problems. Bolt exists only to prevent groundfall from the second boulder problem if you pitch leftwards off the arete. It doesn't do much to keep you off the ledge, so a pad there can help if you're unwilling to commit. Originally done as a solo with no bolt.
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