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Early Access
Routes in The Citadel
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A Full Dazed Work (not Coronas and Lime) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Citadel S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Desperate Doo Doo TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Let Down Your Hair S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rapunzel, Rapunzel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roll the Bones S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wake of The Red Witch S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
| Type: | Sport, 95 ft (29 m) |
| GPS: | 40.69397, -105.38006 |
| FA: | T. Wilhelmi, D. Peavey |
| Page Views: | 3,623 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Spencer Anderson on Aug 18, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | James Schroeder, Pete Zagorski, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2025 Seasonal Raptor Closures - Triple Tier, Boston Peak, Grazing Allotment Crag
Details
FORT COLLINS, Colo. (Feb. 3, 2025) – To protect nesting birds of prey, the Roosevelt National Forest began implementing annual closures in several popular recreation areas within the Canyon Lakes and Boulder Ranger Districts on Feb 1, 2025.
On the Canyon Lakes Ranger District, the closure areas include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details.
The Roosevelt National Forest works closely with partners like Colorado Parks and Wildlife, Boulder Climbing Community and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
From the Canyon Lakes Ranger District Forest Service:
Fort Collins, Colo. (March 7, 2024) – to protect nesting birds of prey, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in several popular recreation areas throughout the Canyon Lakes Ranger District. The closures include Triple Tier, south of CO Highway 14; Boston Peak, north of CO Highway 14; Grazing Allotment Crag, northwest of Prairie Divide Road; and Mt. Olympus, southeast of US Highway 34. See the closure map for more details. Effective through July 31, 2024, the closures protect established raptor territories to ensure the birds remain undisturbed during sensitive breeding and nesting seasons.
The Canyon Lakes Ranger District partners with Colorado Parks & Wildlife and the Northern Colorado Climbers Coalition to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving raptors space to raise their young.
Federal and state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Additional closure information is available online.
A map: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Additional information: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….
Description
This is a good route with fun moves. Start with feet on the broken/crumbly base of the tower (foot holds might break off). If you start closer to A Dazed Work, then it's a little easier and the rock seems a bit more solid (make sure you traverse right after). The first clip is somewhat taxing (stick clip isn't a bad idea if this is your limit). The rest of the route is very well bolted. The crux comes about 25 feet off the ground when moving over the obvious bulge using the crack. Generally, the holds are very solid and the moves are big. This route might be a little more difficult for shorter people. Make sure you stay to the right, as the features seem to make you want to move left.
The last 1/3 of the climb (once you get to the big crack system) is easier in comparison. If the rock quality was better (particularly at the base) and the difficulty stayed more consistent, this route would definitely be four stars. This is a great one nonetheless.
Location
This route is on the northwest face of the Citadel tower formation. There are only two routes on this side, and you run right into them as you make you way from the approach trail. A Dazed Work is directly to the left, about 2 feet. (See the photo.)
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