Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Kevin Parker, Garret Dudley (March 1987)
Page Views: 1,755 total · 12/month
Shared By: DaveB on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Harder than it looks.

Jam and stem right-facing dihedral. Move left around small roof to gain face and crack (crux 1). Climb undulating handcrack into awkward slot (crux 2) below pie-shaped roof. Top out to the left and move to anchors atop adjacent sport-route (Eight Ball...).

Location

From main trail, descend wooden ladders. Stay left to go to Bubba Buttress. Follow trail along wall/face past several sport routes (Harmonic Jello 5.12c, etc...) to a deep right-facing dihedral and handcrack near a tree. BBC starts here.

Protection

Hands (and larger if you want). You'll want several #2 to #4 BD cams and maybe a big hex. No anchors. Move left to anchors atop Eight Ball.

Photos

Eric Beyeler
Lancaster, PA
  5.9
Eric Beyeler   Lancaster, PA
  5.9
Bring plenty (4 or 5) #3's Jun 26, 2015
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
 
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
 
4 or 5 BD #3s??? Nah. This nice route can be safely protected with two 2-inch cams, two 3-inch cams, one 4-inch cam (circa mid height after the roof), and a medium/large nut or .75-inch cam at the lip of the mini roof.

I'd say this is a great one for those breaking into the grade and/or learning to hand/fist-jam. The initial stemming corner is sweet, and there are many good stances outside the crack from which to place pro on the upper half too. The last few moves are enjoyably scruffy, but also very secure. You might thrutch for a few minutes, but you won't fall out! Oct 20, 2015