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Routes in Bubba Buttress

Basic Bubba Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bubba Safari T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bubbarete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cumberland Blues T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Duck In A Noose S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dumbolt County T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eight Ball in the Side Pocket S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Face it Bubba T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fierce Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fired for Sandbagging S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hi-C S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Immaculate Combustion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Logotherapy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Man From Planet Zog, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wunderkind S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Kevin Parker, Garret Dudley (March 1987)
Page Views: 1,501 total, 12/month
Shared By: DaveB on Jul 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


22 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Harder than it looks.

Jam and stem right-facing dihedral. Move left around small roof to gain face and crack (crux 1). Climb undulating handcrack into awkward slot (crux 2) below pie-shaped roof. Top out to the left and move to anchors atop adjacent sport-route (Eight Ball...).

Location

From main trail, descend wooden ladders. Stay left to go to Bubba Buttress. Follow trail along wall/face past several sport routes (Harmonic Jello 5.12c, etc...) to a deep right-facing dihedral and handcrack near a tree. BBC starts here.

Protection

Hands (and larger if you want). You'll want several #2 to #4 BD cams and maybe a big hex. No anchors. Move left to anchors atop Eight Ball.
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
 
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
 
4 or 5 BD #3s??? Nah. This nice route can be safely protected with two 2-inch cams, two 3-inch cams, one 4-inch cam (circa mid height after the roof), and a medium/large nut or .75-inch cam at the lip of the mini roof.

I'd say this is a great one for those breaking into the grade and/or learning to hand/fist-jam. The initial stemming corner is sweet, and there are many good stances outside the crack from which to place pro on the upper half too. The last few moves are enjoyably scruffy, but also very secure. You might thrutch for a few minutes, but you won't fall out! Oct 20, 2015
Eric Beyeler
  5.9
Eric Beyeler  
  5.9
Bring plenty (4 or 5) #3's Jun 26, 2015