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Eight Ball in the Side Pocket
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.3 from 3
votes
Routes in 11. Bubba Buttress
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Basic Bubba Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bubba Safari T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Bubbarete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cumberland Blues T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Duck In A Noose S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dumbolt County T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eight Ball in the Side Pocket S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Face it Bubba T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Fierce Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fired for Sandbagging S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Harmonic Jello S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Hi-C S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Immaculate Combustion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Logotherapy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Man From Planet Zog, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Truth or Contra-Expenses S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wunderkind S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Eric Horst, Charles Ganote 2001 |
| Page Views: | 1,009 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Aaron Moses on Sep 29, 2014 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Eight ball is a fun beta intensive New River Slab climb with several cruxes to keep you thinking, all culminating with a committing move at the end. This one could be a challenging onsite. Though sometimes close to the climbing, the crack is off route.
The route shares anchors with Basic Bubba Crack and Face it Bubba, so it is easy to TR or hang draws after climbing either. It also should be easy to hike to the top.
Stop reading here if you want to onsight...
The standard start is on the face just below the first bolt or the short person start uses a cheater stone on the arete. Either way, use the left hand sidepull and obvious jug to climb the face. Make a couple reaches between good horizontals until the good holds disappear. Fight the temptation to sidepull the crack, find what little holds are available on the face and balance your way up. Continue up to a good horizontal to another balancy standup move and then more good horizontals as things steepen up a bit. Use the iron band sidepull and the hard to see crack out left to stand up to good holds at the last bolt. Stand up to the slopey sidepull, and then balance further out right to a good little pinch, step through, shuffle feet around and then reach up and left to good hidden mono pocket. After deciding which finger can handle the move, toss to the good horizontal and crank your way up jugs to the anchor.
The route shares anchors with Basic Bubba Crack and Face it Bubba, so it is easy to TR or hang draws after climbing either. It also should be easy to hike to the top.
Stop reading here if you want to onsight...
The standard start is on the face just below the first bolt or the short person start uses a cheater stone on the arete. Either way, use the left hand sidepull and obvious jug to climb the face. Make a couple reaches between good horizontals until the good holds disappear. Fight the temptation to sidepull the crack, find what little holds are available on the face and balance your way up. Continue up to a good horizontal to another balancy standup move and then more good horizontals as things steepen up a bit. Use the iron band sidepull and the hard to see crack out left to stand up to good holds at the last bolt. Stand up to the slopey sidepull, and then balance further out right to a good little pinch, step through, shuffle feet around and then reach up and left to good hidden mono pocket. After deciding which finger can handle the move, toss to the good horizontal and crank your way up jugs to the anchor.
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