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Routes in Bubba Buttress

Basic Bubba Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bubba Safari T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Bubbarete T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cumberland Blues T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Duck In A Noose S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dumbolt County T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Eight Ball in the Side Pocket S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Face it Bubba T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fierce Face S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fired for Sandbagging S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hi-C S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Immaculate Combustion S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Logotherapy S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Man From Planet Zog, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wunderkind S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Eric Horst, Eric McCallister 2004
Page Views: 1,487 total, 12/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Dec 2, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

The opening moves are the technical crux. Small crimps to reach an overhang. The overhang section is more of a sequential crux. If you pick the right holds quickly enough, you get a nice rest immediately after the moves. From here, follow a flake system to the left and then straight up to the finish. The last part is significantly easier than the rest, unless you opt for the harder variation (Harmonic Jello, 12c) that heads right. This might be a good project for someone breaking into the 5.12 grade.

Location

This is the first obvious route you will encounter as you approach the main face of the Bubba Buttress walking upstream. Just to of the crack at the start of Face it Bubba.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts.

Photos

James Elric
rockville
 
James Elric   rockville
 
3.5 stars! awesome route. The start is brutal - V5 IMO but perhaps not quite enough for the bump to 12b. 2nd crux for the small roof is deceptive - your belayer will wonder what the hell your problem is - but nothing a knee drop can't fix. 2nd half is totally chill but a lot of fun

Great route for a boulderer - it's basically a v4+ to a bomber rest and clipping hold. and then a v3/v4 to another bomber rest. after that maybe 10d tops for last 25 feet? all the clips are super secure so rope management is trivial.

anyone know some history on this one? that first left flaky crimp is delicate - easy to imagine it having been significant;y better a few years ago? Aug 30, 2017