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Routes in White Heat Wall

Anarchist's Lament S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Angel of Mercy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blushing Crows S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Central Pillar S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun, Fun, Joy, Joy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gardian Angel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hale Bop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Creatures S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
No Impact S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Searching for Blanton's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Searching for Jose S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spike 'n Vein S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Heat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Winter Storm Warning S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Jim and Tommy Howe
Page Views: 100 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on Jul 6, 2007
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

If you fumble the 2nd or 3rd clips you might end up with less than healthy ankles, as you start this line by traversing out a balancy ledge to the first line and climbing above it through the low crux. The climbing is great (if you aren't worrying about your ankles) and above the crux it is very very fun.

Location

Located on the far right side of White Heat Wall out a ledge. This is 3 lines right of Winter Storm Warning (WSW 5.9+, Hale Bop 11a, Peter Bop 10d and then Little Creatures 10+).

Protection

9 bolts to anchors. Belayer may want to positioned down below the ledge. Stick clipping the 1st and maybe the 2nd bolt could be a smart choice.

Photos

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hearing the history above makes me curious. Oct.-2017 dicey second clip, bouldery start made it feel 11b Nov 1, 2017
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
In BARF's rebolting process, a fair bit of nastiness was found with this pitch. The fourth and fifth bolts were both in loose flakes, the fourth now being in said flake and in Wild Iris Mountain Sports as an example of where NOT to place a bolt. While feeling around for the second bolts location from the obvious clipping flake, said-flake flew over my head, meaning there was no clipping hold at the crux. So, some stuff was moved around. The start now makes it something like 11c, but it is better protected. The 5th or 6th bolt actually goes slightly left for a bit, meaning you might want a slightly longer draw there. Also, I think it is now at least 10 clips. With a non attentive belayer, you could still hit the ledge at the start, so stay focused. Also, be wary of other possible flakes. Apr 11, 2014