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Routes in White Heat Wall

Anarchist's Lament S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Angel of Mercy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blushing Crows S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Central Pillar S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Divided Sky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fun, Fun, Joy, Joy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gardian Angel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hale Bop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Creatures S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
No Impact S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Searching for Blanton's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Searching for Jose S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Shortie Shortie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spike 'n Vein S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Velvet Sea S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
White Heat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wind Blows High S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winter Storm Warning S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ken Trout
Page Views: 297 total · 3/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Sep 21, 2009
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

((Fun, Joy)^2)-2FunJoy is nothing special, but worth doing if you're running out of 5.10s and you're in the area. There is a bit of afternoon shade at the base which is nice for the belayer. This line is a bit unusual for Sinks, climbing more like a Shelf Road 5.10 with lieback moves up the crack at the start.

Begin just right of the juniper tree, scramble up to the ledge, and lieback up the crack for about 15', where great pockets lead around the buttress to the right. A cruxy reach leads to the trivial, low-angle slab above.

Location

Ascends the line of bolts just right of the obvious dihedral on the left end of the White Heat Wall.

Protection

~6 Bolts to 2 Bolt Anchor. Stick clip recommended.

Photos

TNF2323  
As of 9-21-14, it appeared that a rattlesnake was living in the crack at the base of this climb. It was sleeping on the top ledge of the beginning blocks of the route in the early evening. Oct 3, 2014