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Routes in White Heat Wall

Blushing Crows S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Central Pillar S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fun, Fun, Joy, Joy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gardian Angel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hale Bop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Creatures S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
No Impact S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Searching for Blanton's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Searching for Jose S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Spike 'n Vein S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
White Heat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Winter Storm Warning S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Greg Collins and Sue Miller
Page Views: 112 total, 1/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 26, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

A route in two parts. A nice thin slab intro with well protected technical climbing leads up to a bulge. Shake it out, because its pumpy and routefinding (on a sport route?) takes some time. Climb some initial big moves on pockets up and left into the bulge. Ride it to the anchors. Stout and fun climb.

Location

Located on the bulge to the right of the 12's on the main panel of rock like White Heat and Blushing Crows. Just left of the bulge Central Pillar (11a) climbs a pillar and skirts the left side of the bulge. Spike 'n Vein, is the third route to the right on the bulge. Winter Storm Warning is immediately right of this, and skirts the bulge on the right.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors.

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11b
I thought this climb was fun, but the bolt spacing was odd. Committing climbing brings you to a high first bolt (easily solved with a stick clip), and then the run between bolt 3 and 4 (high on the slab to well into the bulge) is just silly. Jul 16, 2014
nice line, plenty well protected Oct 31, 2011
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
I wouldn't say the initial slab is "well protected". For a route that is 3 stars I would think there would be way more chalk on it. The first bolt should be stick-clipped even though I did without. Given 3 out of 3 stars in the newest guide, a POS in my opinion. The upper section had decent moves, but every hold was sharp and prickly. I love routes with diversity such as this, but the prickly holds in the upper section and obscure slab route finding was just 1 out of 3 stars in my book. Jun 10, 2008