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Routes in White Heat Wall

Acid Ranger S 5.14 8c+ 34 XI- 34 E9 7b
Anarchist's Lament S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Angel of Mercy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Blushing Crows S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Central Pillar S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Consumption S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dime Time S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Divided Sky S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fun, Fun, Joy, Joy S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Guardian Angel S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hale Bop S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Creatures S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Mono a Mono S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
No Impact S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peter Bopp S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pocket Full of Kryptonite S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Searching for Blanton's S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Searching for Jose Cuervo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Shortie Sortie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spike 'n Vein S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Titanic S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Velvet Sea S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
War Party S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
White Heat S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wind Blows High S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Winter Storm Warning S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Greg Collins and Sue Miller
Page Views: 159 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jesse Ryan on May 26, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


34 Opinions

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Description

A route in two parts. A nice thin slab intro with well protected technical climbing leads up to a bulge. Shake it out, because its pumpy and routefinding (on a sport route?) takes some time. Climb some initial big moves on pockets up and left into the bulge. Ride it to the anchors. Stout and fun climb.

Location

Located on the bulge to the right of the 12's on the main panel of rock like White Heat and Blushing Crows. Just left of the bulge Central Pillar (11a) climbs a pillar and skirts the left side of the bulge. Spike 'n Vein, is the third route to the right on the bulge. Winter Storm Warning is immediately right of this, and skirts the bulge on the right.

Protection

5 bolts to anchors.

Photos

jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
I wouldn't say the initial slab is "well protected". For a route that is 3 stars I would think there would be way more chalk on it. The first bolt should be stick-clipped even though I did without. Given 3 out of 3 stars in the newest guide, a POS in my opinion. The upper section had decent moves, but every hold was sharp and prickly. I love routes with diversity such as this, but the prickly holds in the upper section and obscure slab route finding was just 1 out of 3 stars in my book. Jun 10, 2008
nice line, plenty well protected Oct 31, 2011
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11b
I thought this climb was fun, but the bolt spacing was odd. Committing climbing brings you to a high first bolt (easily solved with a stick clip), and then the run between bolt 3 and 4 (high on the slab to well into the bulge) is just silly. Jul 16, 2014

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