Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Michelle Locatelli
Page Views: 4,340 total · 31/month
Shared By: Cunning Linguist on Jun 26, 2007
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

New route with a short, safe crux, easy lower off, solid bolts, and fun climbing. I've heard from 10a-10c, I thought it was a one-move 5.10.

Location

Just left of two easier central slab routes-immediately right of Just Shut Up and Climb.

Protection

Draws

Photos

J W
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a/b
J W   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10a/b
Be mindful of the jug left of the second bolt- the right hand side is bomber, but the left hand side felt...not as secure as it should be. Sep 29, 2011
MN norske
Henderson
  5.10b
MN norske   Henderson
  5.10b
after clipping second bolt you enter the crux (I thought). There is a hold that looks like a big jug but just crimpers. You under cling this instead of over cling and send it. Def pumpy if your not used to overhung. May 12, 2013
Nick Zmyewski
Newark, Delaware
 
Nick Zmyewski   Newark, Delaware
 
I really loved this climb, awesome juggy overghang. Super fun! Jan 28, 2014
Examine your draw on the fourth bolt carefully. The climber before me warned me that none of his draws would lie safely do to the position of the hanger.

I went up to fourth saw what his was talking about clipped it and carefully took. As soon as I took I watched my carabiner gate open =0. I extremely carefully finished the route above it, treating it as no fall.

If I lived in the area I would contact the local climbing group to see about putting maybe a length of chain with a quick link on it, or a fixe draw like fixehardware.com/shop/ancho… there. I think most carabiners are not going to sit properly, I've very glad I didn't go above that bolt and fall. Feb 17, 2015
Cunning Linguist
  5.10a/b
Cunning Linguist  
  5.10a/b
They make these things called lockers. If you're shitting egg rolls because your biner opened, perhaps you should use a biner that won't open?

Or you can pray to the Local Climbing Group Gods to start permadrawing everything for your convenience. Cause that is certain to happen.

Sport climber- noun A person woefully under equipped to climb outdoors who wouldn't know how to deal with anything out of the ordinary when, predictably and reliably, that happens. Feb 18, 2015
Dave Sherman
  5.10c
Dave Sherman  
  5.10c
Don't listen to the Cunning Linguist who plagiarized his name. If something's a safety issue, even if it turns out not to be, reporting it can help in lots of ways and hurt in none. A hanger which causes draws to seat improperly isn't safe and should be addressed. Nothing at all wrong with that and thanks for reporting.

No sport climb should have an "R" or "X" next to it. Bolt it properly or don't at all. Mr. Linguist should be a real man and get on the English grit instead of demoralizing people reporting safety issues at Red Rock so as to address childhood grievances. Mar 15, 2017