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Routes in Up Among the Firs

A Little Testis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chokin' A Grogan S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Collet a Day T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nostalgia Aint What it Used to be T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poster Boy T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Rash T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toasted Testa Rossa T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Totally Clips S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Usual Panic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wicker Cranium T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zazert T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeasi T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,896 total · 14/month
Shared By: Alpine Carl on Jun 3, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

This is a fun route, and one of my favorites in Murin Park: the finger locks and hand jams are sweet, it eats gear, and like a lot of classic 'squish routes, the crux comes... Well, I'll let you find that one out for yourself. Rest assured, this is a very safe route.

The lower half of the crack can be very wet after rain or during any month not named June, July, August, or September, but after hiking all the way up there, you're going to climb it anyway, so who cares, right?

Location

This route is the obvious dogleg on the blank slab to the left of A Little Testis and just to the right of a line of shiny new bolts that terminate at the same anchors.

Protection

TCUs, cams to 2.5", set of nuts. Fixed anchor at the top, from which you can rap or TR with a 60.

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Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9
People really seem to love this route. It's a gooder. Protects well. Oct 14, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
The most full value .9 I've done in awhile- very engaging.... Jul 19, 2010
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
AWESOME! I mean, really good! Fun as hell and bomber gear the whole way! Shares anchors with the route at left and you will probably want a cordalette or a couple of double length slings to extend off the bolts if top roping. Aug 4, 2011
Adrian Lazar  
 
Awesome fun line that ate most of my cams. Aug 22, 2011
Mark van Eijk
  5.9+
Mark van Eijk  
  5.9+
Great route with a few surprises. I found there to be two cruxes requiring very different styles, and while neither is harder than 5.9 the combination of the two justifies the .9+ rating. Save a larger finger-sized piece (I like a green BD nut) for the last move. Sep 2, 2011
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
this is one of the best 5.9's around. Jul 3, 2014

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