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Routes in Up Among the Firs

A Little Testis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chokin' A Grogan S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Collet a Day T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nostalgia Aint What it Used to be T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poster Boy T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Rash T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toasted Testa Rossa T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Totally Clips S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Usual Panic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wicker Cranium T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zazert T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeasi T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Glen Payan, Jeff Thomson, 1997
Page Views: 3,330 total, 26/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Apr 22, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route

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Visit Up Among the Firs for this climb, stay for the other climbs. Start up a fairly easy corner, a few awkward moves in a flaring crack lead to a beautiful left facing corner crack.


The trail that takes you to Up Among the Firs pretty much exits in front of a feature called "The Pie" as there are cracks that section the face the way a pie would be cut into six pieces. The right side of this area is bounded by a big left facing corner which hosts this climb.


Medium nuts and cams will get you through the initial corner and flare. The upper crack takes hand sized gear, but note that it widens a bit inside, so choose your gear wisely: what enters the crack may tip out once it's inside. Don't let that comment worry you too much, the protection is excellent.
mark webster
Gig Harbor
mark webster   Gig Harbor
This climb is a real gem! You don't need anything bigger than a yellow. I was able to get top rope pieces for the bulge move using finger size cams. There is a rest there on a great face hold out left. You can stem it, or hand jam the bulge to a knee move using a high toe jam.

The upper dihedral is one to two inches, with a few finger sized cams on the top out. You can basically set top rope peices from a no hands rest, then power up to the sinker hand jam, plug in another red #1, and you are done with the hard climbing.

It is super safe, the crack eats gear the whole way. I did a combination of toe jams, hand jams, laybacks and ring locks through the upper crux. It felt a lot like a strenuous nine after you pass the bulge. Sep 14, 2015
Very, very, fun climbing. (Notwithstanding the awkward-as-heck bulge.) Jul 13, 2015
Alex Jacques
Burlington, CT
Alex Jacques   Burlington, CT
don't put a cam in the crux. such a sweet climb! Jul 3, 2014
Amazing climb, awesome hand jams, and good rests ... no need to get pumped. IMO the crux is the bulge. Jul 18, 2013
Mark van Eijk
Mark van Eijk  
In my opinion a stellar route with some impeccable crack and engaging features. The awkward bulge in the middle somewhat clashes with the style of the rest of the route and seems to require a different approach for every body type (smaller climbers seem to tend towards chimney/stem techniques whereas those with longer limbs can usually use a combination of heel/toe cams and reachy thrutching). Perfect hand and finger crack to the top may feel like the redpoint crux as the pump can build rapidly. Hard to compare to wicker cranium as they are quite different animals but absolutely excellent in its own right. Most run out the bottom crack as it is easy and the pro is needed up top. Sep 2, 2011

BETA ALERT >> I was told that the crux was the awkward bulge, and that the upper corner was easy. Handcrack in a corner sounded right up my alley - but, after cruising the lower bulge, I blew the onsight above, pumped out in the upper corner. It's easier than the bulge, but - not by that much, and it's steeper than it looks!

Loved the pitch. Sep 2, 2007
I think this pitch is overhyped and overrated. I thought Wicker Cranium was a lot more value for the grade. Aug 12, 2007