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Routes in Up Among the Firs

A Little Testis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chokin' A Grogan S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Collet a Day T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nose, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nostalgia Aint What it Used to be T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poster Boy T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Road Rash T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Toasted Testa Rossa T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Totally Clips S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Usual Panic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wicker Cranium T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Zazert T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Zeasi T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Payan & Thomson 1997
Page Views: 1,644 total, 13/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Aug 12, 2007
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

I wasn't sure whether to call this trad or sport as it's entirely bolt protected except for one placement.

The semi-intimidating arete left of A Little Testis.

Slab past the first two bolts of Unusual panic which will seem like the crux if you're dialed in to Squamish slabs. After the 2nd bolt, veer right towards a crack where the slab meets a bolted arete at a left facing corner. Place a #2 Camalot sized piece (w/ runner) in the corner then continue up the corner until you can clip the first bolt on the arete. Transition onto the arete and enjoy clean face climbing (w/ holds) until you top out at anchors.

Location

A few feet left of the Testis corner.

Protection

About 7 bolts and one hand sized piece.

Photos

claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
awesome climb! 4 stars for sure. I second the comment that you can place either a smaller nut or a #00 cam before the first bolt if you want. Then either #1 or #2 in the roof before the arete. The arete is the business and it's soooooo good!! Extend the anchors (cordalette or two double length slings) if setting up the TR.

You can also take sick pictures of your friends on the corner from atop this pitch. Aug 4, 2011
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
 
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
 
I got a #3 WC nut before the first bolt, takes a bit of the spice out of things. Wild route though, balls out fun. Jan 12, 2011
Mike Teschke
North Vancouver
 
Mike Teschke   North Vancouver
 
It's a pretty scary clip if you neglect to bring that piece of pro.
But a fun climb with some fantastic views and a very exposed feel as you move up and onto the bolted arete. Jul 23, 2008