All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > D) Idol Point

Riding the Crest of the Wave

Name: Riding the Crest of the Wave
Rating: 3.1

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in D) Idol Point

L › R R › L A › Z

	Command Performance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Idol Hands T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Idol Point Arête S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Meniscus Burning S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Riding the Crest of the Wave T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Spectre T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 140 ft (42 m)
GPS:	38.05435, -81.06164
FA:	Rick Thompson and Scott Garso 1986
Page Views:	2,140 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Ladd Raine on May 24, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

This excellent, long route (~140' or ~43m) is commonly climbed as a multi-pitch route, one of the few in the NRG.

There are two recommended belay stances that could be used for this route. For most parties, it likely makes sense to climb this in two pitches, but it could be climbed in one or five - choose your adventure. Either recommended belay stance would give the party a similar experience.

Given the length of this route, plan accordingly, do not rappel on a rope that is too short.

Begin left of the arete on a slab, below the small corner system. Climb through the small corner and move right to an alcove stance on the arete. This stance is around 40' from the base and a reasonable spot to build a gear anchor.

Continue right around the arete for another 5' to good protection. Move up into the upper crack system. Follow this continuous crack until you reach the twin flake systems (the large twin flakes are not easily visible from the base, but are clear in the long-distance photo posted in the Idol Point description). At the top of the first flake there is a bolted anchor. This position is ~95' from the base.

From here, continue up the obvious right-trending corner system to small tiered roofs. Tackle the roofs and then step right to the bolted anchors at the top of the cliff.

If you find yourself on bad rock or in unprotected terrain, you have climbed off-route on this pleasant romp.