Type: Trad, 110 ft, 2 pitches
FA: R. Eberhard, Roger Parkyn
Page Views: 5,008 total · 35/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on May 16, 2007

You & This Route

10 Opinions

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This is the "regular" route to the top of the Moai, and makes for an excellent adventure. Generally done in two pitches, this route can easily be done in one with a little regard to rope drag. The first pitch is an easy scramble to the top of the big ledge on the NE corner of the tower. From this ledge, continue up highly featured rock past a bolt via a flake system to the summit. One 50m rope is sufficient to rap down.

This route is graded 17/18. I'm too lazy to figure out what that means in YDS.


N side of the Moai.


Gear to 3 inches, and carrot hangers. Fixed rap anchor on the summit.
Jordy Cox
Salt Lake City, UT
Jordy Cox   Salt Lake City, UT
Great route in an incredible location.
5***** for sure.
Well worth the 2 hour approach (never mind the tiger snake on the trail). Perfect alternative to the Totem Pole: easier route, shorter approach and no tyrolean or fixed ropes necessary: a plus for overseas travellers.

Did the route on 10/18/2011.

5.9+/10a but well protected.
No need for carrot hangers: 2 bolts on route with hangers: The first looks marginal but with a good #2 cam placement right below it. The second one is solid.
The rap anchors are in great shape.
Easy rap to the ground with a single 60m.

The final bit of the approach requires some raps of course: 1st set is off a bolted anchor. After that you are raping of trees. Bring slings and retrieve them on the way out.

Climbing out is not trivial: one 4th class grovel off the ground and through bushes, followed by a short 5.6 chimney and finally a solid 5.8 back up to the first rap anchor (a #3 cam is nice on this one- you don't need it on the actual Moai, though). Nov 5, 2011