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Routes in Park Avenue

Candelabrum-Hall of Flame T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2
Cinnamon Rose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hamburger, The T C0 PG13
Heart of the Desert T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sandbag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tilting at Windmills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Weapons of Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, Aid, 3 pitches
FA: Kyle Copeland, Alison Sheets, 1987.
Page Views: 975 total, 8/month
Shared By: toddgordon Gordon on Apr 30, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

This begins on the bench of Dewey Bridge Sandstone, at the far left-side of the West Face. The anchors can be seen from below.

Protection

Walk down Park Ave and it's on the right.

Photos

Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Kalous and I did this thing yesterday. Nice day in the desert, but I think two stars is generous. The place is beautiful, as are almost all towers in Arches, but the climbing is not too good.
We cleaned up the years of tat. The rap on the back side makes it to the ledge so barely that you actually drop the last foot... this means you need to hang on to the pulling side of the rope cus it flies up about 10 feet above you when you drop away (stretch).
Soft first pitch is decievingly hard. Mid pitch is super soft. You need extra 5 and 6's for the last 50 feet. Two 70's would make the rap easy... even a 70 and a 60 so you could pull the 70 would work... though two 60's works too, if you don't let go of the pulling end when you drop. Feb 27, 2008
Holy Sh#t Brother!

"I fell aways and actually was not stopped by the rope, but by my body getting wedged into a tight chimney section.....ouch.....that hurt and I got a bit banged up......"

That sounds pretty damn roudy! I'm starting to believe you when you say that desert tower climbing is dangerous stuff. Glad you were ok and are still here to share the story. That was a great read! Thanks.

I also have a lazy side and feel that one of the most appealing things about Arches is the short approaches. I think I used up most of my alpine starting/long approaching when I lived on the Front Range. May 3, 2007
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
 
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
 
Hello, Brad. I'll try to be more specific with this route.....I did this route in April of 1995...so it was awhile ago. ...our team was myself, Dana Adler, Cyndie Bransford. We called Dana "pappi" because he was older than us! I know Kyle and Allison Sheets did the first ascent in 1987;...I don't remember talking to Kyle about this route;.....The last time I went climbing with Kyle was in 1995;...he wasn't too into climbing by that time, and after 1995, didn't even seem to want to talk about climbing much;...we still remained friends, but talked about other stuff, played music together, etc.... He has been a very good friend to me over the years, and a inspiration and damn good climber too. I miss hanging out with him. Anyways,...they rated the climb 5.11d A2;....and Kyle climbed that hard;....but not me....we aided anything that was harder than mid-5.10, I'm sure. On the first pitch, I place a small cam under a roof, , stood on it, and a large section of the roof broke off under my blubber;......the piece pulled, and when the rope went tight, the FIRST piece the rope went through just off the ground pulled too....giving me MORE rope;...I fell aways and actually was not stopped by the rope, but by my body getting wedged into a tight chimney section.....ouch.....that hurt and I got a bit banged up.......but the rest of the climb went uneventful.....I remember the climb being fairly mellow and fun;...I can't remember if the climb went to the top or not;...it went to the top of SOMETHING, I'm sure. I dont' remember the rappel route either....sorry;....The last 3 years of no sleep with our three infants killed brain cells. Park ave. section of Arches is so beautiful, and the short approach I find appealing, because I have a lazy side too me as well. You get to show off for all the touristos that are hiking down Park Ave. We had a great time, and I liked the climb alot....it's a good one. I don't think it gets done all that much;...which is cool. Desert Rock has the recommended gear list. If you do this climb, you will love it! Does that help any? May 3, 2007
Hey Todd,

Does this route go to the top? I hear that one of the routes on this formation doesn't...
What protection is needed?
How hard are the pitches?
Do you rappel the route? May 2, 2007