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Candelabrum-Hall of Flame
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British A2
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Park Avenue
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Candelabrum-Hall of Flame T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2 |
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Cinnamon Rose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hamburger, The T C0 PG13 |
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Heart of the Desert T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sandbag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tilting at Windmills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Weapons of Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 3 pitches |
| FA: | Kyle Copeland, Alison Sheets, 1987. |
| Page Views: | 1,056 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | toddgordon Gordon on Apr 30, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
-Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictionsmountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
-Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictionsmountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Does this route go to the top? I hear that one of the routes on this formation doesn't...
What protection is needed?
How hard are the pitches?
Do you rappel the route? May 2, 2007
Joshua Tree, California
"I fell aways and actually was not stopped by the rope, but by my body getting wedged into a tight chimney section.....ouch.....that hurt and I got a bit banged up......"
That sounds pretty damn roudy! I'm starting to believe you when you say that desert tower climbing is dangerous stuff. Glad you were ok and are still here to share the story. That was a great read! Thanks.
I also have a lazy side and feel that one of the most appealing things about Arches is the short approaches. I think I used up most of my alpine starting/long approaching when I lived on the Front Range. May 3, 2007
Lander, WY
We cleaned up the years of tat. The rap on the back side makes it to the ledge so barely that you actually drop the last foot... this means you need to hang on to the pulling side of the rope cus it flies up about 10 feet above you when you drop away (stretch).
Soft first pitch is decievingly hard. Mid pitch is super soft. You need extra 5 and 6's for the last 50 feet. Two 70's would make the rap easy... even a 70 and a 60 so you could pull the 70 would work... though two 60's works too, if you don't let go of the pulling end when you drop. Feb 27, 2008