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Heart of the Desert [Suggest Change]
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.3 from 35
votes
Routes in Park Avenue
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Candelabrum-Hall of Flame T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2 |
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Cinnamon Rose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hamburger, The T C0 PG13 |
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Heart of the Desert T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Sandbag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tilting at Windmills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Weapons of Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft |
| FA: | Jeff Widen - 1985 |
| Page Views: | 3,139 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Apr 18, 2003 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
-Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictionsmountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
-Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictionsmountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: Please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat wall and Reservoir wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description [Suggest Change]
Heart of the Desert is a quality thin hands to fists crack in a left facing dihedral on relatively good rock. The cruxes are at two wide pods roughly one-third and two-thirds of the way up the climb. Don't miss several stemming rests and a knee-cam no hands rest in one of the pods.
To get there, park at the Courthouse Parking area, walk across the street to the trail and look left down Park Avenue. On the left-hand wall, about a quarter mile away, you can make out the obvious dihedral of Heart of the Desert.
To get there, park at the Courthouse Parking area, walk across the street to the trail and look left down Park Avenue. On the left-hand wall, about a quarter mile away, you can make out the obvious dihedral of Heart of the Desert.
Protection [Suggest Change]
My rack (should have) consisted of one 0.75, two #1, three #2, four #3, and one #3.5 or #4 Camalots. Fixed anchors.
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