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Routes in Park Avenue

Candelabrum-Hall of Flame T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2
Cinnamon Rose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hamburger, The T C0 PG13
Heart of the Desert T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sandbag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tilting at Windmills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Weapons of Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Jeff Widen - 1985
Page Views: 2,963 total, 17/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Apr 18, 2003
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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34 Opinions

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Heart of the Desert is a quality thin hands to fists crack in a left facing dihedral on relatively good rock. The cruxes are at two wide pods roughly one-third and two-thirds of the way up the climb. Don't miss several stemming rests and a knee-cam no hands rest in one of the pods.

To get there, park at the Courthouse Parking area, walk across the street to the trail and look left down Park Avenue. On the left-hand wall, about a quarter mile away, you can make out the obvious dihedral of Heart of the Desert.

Protection

My rack (should have) consisted of one 0.75, two #1, three #2, four #3, and one #3.5 or #4 Camalots. Fixed anchors.
Eric T.
St. Augustine, Florida
 
Eric T.   St. Augustine, Florida
 
Great route! Good exercise in hands, fists, and a little OW. You don't need anything smaller than a #1 Camalot. I think I used 2 #1's, 3 #2's, 2-3 #3's, 1 #4, and 1 #5. Mar 24, 2015
Ivan Rezucha
Fort Collins, CO
 
Ivan Rezucha   Fort Collins, CO
 
Spectacular! I TR'd it and fell once trying to layback the wide spot in the middle. It's very sandy if you're laybacking. I was then able to climb that part quite easily using fist jams and foot stacks. Oct 14, 2010
Sam Lightner, Jr.
Lander, WY
Sam Lightner, Jr.   Lander, WY
Yesterday, the Minime and I replaced the anchors on this route with 1/2 inch bolts and chain. 1 bolt is a stainless power bolt, the other a 5.5 inch strke anchor. This was part of the ASCA/Access Fund effort to work with the Park in cleaning up the most unsightly anchors and tat. May 18, 2007
toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
Shortly after its first ascent (Jeff Widen, Aug. 1985), I had heard about this "Indian Creek" like crack climb. I went over with Dave Evans and the lovely Sonja Pasqal. It was a bit sandy at the time, and we wondered also about a climb that ended before the crack ended (the system continues on....), but it was really excellent and WAY fun!....Did I say how lovely Sonja is?...yeah; I think I already did....I bet, now 20-some years later, she's still JUST as lovely.... and the climb is still just as excellent! Apr 27, 2007
Alpine Carl  
 
This is a superb pitch. Great hands (some fists, too, for me) and bomber gear. I would recomend a rack of Camalots from 1 to old 4 and Metolius 7 to 9. Some draws are nice to extend the placements. Apr 14, 2007
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a/b
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a/b
I recall this route being excessively sandy. I remember seating a hex, then testing it only to have the crack discintegrate around it. I was very scared as I ran it out to the anchor. 'course I had less than half the recommended gear. Mar 10, 2007
joe slansky
  5.10a
joe slansky  
  5.10a
It's pretty good; someone should do the next pitch because it stops short shy of where it gets more exciting. Jan 8, 2004