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Routes in Park Avenue

Candelabrum-Hall of Flame T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2
Cinnamon Rose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hamburger, The T C0 PG13
Heart of the Desert T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sandbag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tilting at Windmills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3
Weapons of Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Kyle Copeland, Sue Kemp, 1986
Page Views: 572 total · 4/month
Shared By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on May 18, 2007
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Raptor Closures 2017: Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/… -Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictions mountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park Details
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

The route is located at the very north east end of the south wall of Park Avenue. Park over by the organ and hike up to it via the Park avenue trail and then a ridge of harder rock above. Heart of the Desert is located on the same buttress but about 100 yds further to the west.
The route has a burley start move, then it eases off. By and large its wide hands to OW, but the OW is relatively easy as its low angle.
Both anchors on the route were added after the first ascent. According to Bjornstads book, the FA was done to the ledge above. However, the rock was so soft up there it would not hold an anchor. Over time, climbers added an anchor down lower in the better rock and this has been used for years. An even lower anchor exists below this one and before the widest part of the crack. When I replaced the anchors, I replaced both. The logic being that people would eventually put in another one down low and then we would still have a tat anchor uglifying the cliff (What the Park does not want).
If you want to do the original line, go to the ledge.

Location

At the end of the South Park Avenue wall facing the Courthouse. Pretty location.

Protection

I used a thin hands piece, then a couple of hands pieces, then some wide hands and a couple of OW pieces... like friends #2, #3, 2x#3.5, 2x#4, #5

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