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Routes in Park Avenue
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Candelabrum-Hall of Flame T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A2 |
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Cinnamon Rose T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hamburger, The T C0 PG13 |
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Heart of the Desert T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sandbag T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tilting at Windmills T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Weapons of Love T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft |
| FA: | Kyle Copeland, Sue Kemp, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 782 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Sam Lightner, Jr. on May 18, 2007 |
| Admins: | slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Check status and details at: nps.gov/arch/planyourvisit/…
-Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictionsmountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
-Read about Anchor Replacement and Restrictionsmountainproject.com/v/utah/… in Arches National Park
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Indian Creek 2019 info: or the linkblm.gov/press-release/annou….
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures at the Cat Wall and Reservoir Wall. They occur annually from March 31st until August 31st. *Due to the federal hiring freeze in agencies such as the BLM of Monticello, no official closure for 2017 has been issued and the laws which have been put in place in previous years are not being enforced. Please, for the sake of fragile desert ecology, DO NOT CLIMB at stated walls. These raptors return to the same nesting sites every year to raise their nestlings.
Description
The route is located at the very north east end of the south wall of Park Avenue. Park over by the organ and hike up to it via the Park avenue trail and then a ridge of harder rock above. Heart of the Desert is located on the same buttress but about 100 yds further to the west.
The route has a burley start move, then it eases off. By and large its wide hands to OW, but the OW is relatively easy as its low angle.
Both anchors on the route were added after the first ascent. According to Bjornstads book, the FA was done to the ledge above. However, the rock was so soft up there it would not hold an anchor. Over time, climbers added an anchor down lower in the better rock and this has been used for years. An even lower anchor exists below this one and before the widest part of the crack. When I replaced the anchors, I replaced both. The logic being that people would eventually put in another one down low and then we would still have a tat anchor uglifying the cliff (What the Park does not want).
If you want to do the original line, go to the ledge.
The route has a burley start move, then it eases off. By and large its wide hands to OW, but the OW is relatively easy as its low angle.
Both anchors on the route were added after the first ascent. According to Bjornstads book, the FA was done to the ledge above. However, the rock was so soft up there it would not hold an anchor. Over time, climbers added an anchor down lower in the better rock and this has been used for years. An even lower anchor exists below this one and before the widest part of the crack. When I replaced the anchors, I replaced both. The logic being that people would eventually put in another one down low and then we would still have a tat anchor uglifying the cliff (What the Park does not want).
If you want to do the original line, go to the ledge.
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